Not sure how the guy in the A-stock Evo did. I think he had street tires, though. If so, he wouldn't be in the top finishers.

And, yes, it was the NER event. The course was the same basic layout that the BMW-CCA club uses (that is, the same sequence of runways and taxiways). It was almost a mile long. We typically get run times between 65 and 85 seconds using this layout, depending on how tight the turns are.

You should definitely come up and try it this year. The future status of Devens is uncertain. It may be turned into a nature preserve or developed housing in a few years. It would be a real shame for autocrossers in Southern New England, since it's by far the best site we have.

 

Devens is a great place. Even when I use to train there back in the day it was great. It will be a sad day if(when) it is gone.

 

What grade of oil do you guys use in hot summer months?

On Saturday I was volunteering at a Viper day autox and got in a few runs back-to-back during the lunch break. When I was done my oil temp gauge (from the Mitsu gauge cluster) was registering a little higher than 90C. My idle rpm was a little lower than 1k and my oil light was on. As soon as I revved a little it would go away. I had this happen to me on a very hot day when I was stuck in traffic as well. My guess is that the oil pressure is insufficient at those temps at idle rpm, but I'll need an oil pressure gauge to confirm that.

 

Hmm.. did you check the dip stick?
My oil temp (Mitsu RS gauge) will easily hit 80C during traffic in a hot day and hits
90C in just 3 runs of autox.

 

I've only used 10W30 Mobil 1 year round, never had a oil light come on.

The SAE Crankcase viscosity classifications (like the "30" in 10W30) are based on the oil's measured viscosity at its "working temperature" which is defined as 100 degress Celsius.

Basically, 80 or 90 degrees C oil temp shouldn't cause viscosity issues for any SAE motor oil which is relatively new -- the oil is still cooler than its "design point". If the oil is "old" (degraded), you may have issues.

 

Last year a rogue cone struck my oil filter with such vengeance that it bent the filter and dumped most of the oil on the course. It was only once I reached the end and heard the ticking noise that I turned off the engine and found the sea of oil I had deposited. I'd say the engine ran for about 20s with very little oil. Do you think there's a chance that I may have damaged/worn out some bearings in the process that's causing the problem?

I think I'll need to check my oil pressure to be certain.

 

Sorry if this question has been asked numerous times already... I've searched a few days now and still haven't been able to find a very clear answer to what i'm looking for.. I was curious if anyone could give some advice on how tire pressure usually effects car control. I haven't had the opportunity to participate in any track days or autox/gymkhana events; however, based on spirited driving in big empty parking lots and what not i've noticed that with higher rear pressure the rear of the evoIX likes to kick out a lot more than at lower pressures. I was curious if anyone could give advice or a small guide on how different pressures and/or differences in pressures between Front and Rear affect driving style and/or car stability.

The reason I posted this reply/question in this thread is because I am now beginning to have time to participate in track days and autox/gymkhanas. I'm still a big newbie to car setup and only have vague book knowledge as to how different setups will affect the vehicle. Most of my knowledge is restricted to driver technique only though.. I am very eager to learn much more about tire pressure setup, camber, toe, suspension setups in particular... Any advice/guide type material will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much for your time!
Orin

 

You are correct. A higher pressure in the rear does make it a bit more loose. Normally on the stock setup we usually run about 3-4psi higher in the rear to make the rear come around better. I recommend starting with the lowest pressure at which the tirewall isn't rolling, that is under hard cornering the tire shouldn't flex to such an extent that the tirewall shows scrub marks. This will give you a nice base with good grip. Then if you feel the car to understeer a little, increase the rear pressures slowly until you feel that it's neutral or how you want it to handle. Depending on how you like it you could bump up the front pressures as well.

 

Let's revive this thread. Now that the season is over what are you plans for next year?

I'm making the move to V710s. It'll put a larger hole in the wallet but most importantly a bigger smile on my face (hopefully). Went to VIR and Shenandoah this year and loved it, so I'll keep the RA1s for track.

The 1st set of RA1s I bought were full tread 255/40/17 on 8" Kosei wheels. Never took them off the car so I used them on the road as well. After about 8-10 events one of them corded, lots of uneven wear. Learned my lesson about buying full tread tires.

The 2nd set was a used, I think from a Speed World Challenge car, 235/40/17 that I bought just before I went to VIR. These were shaved before their first use, so a nice contact patch to begin with. They've been through three track days and about 4 autox events and still feel great. For me the response of the lower profile and thinner tire works better. It's not a fair comparison because the 255s weren't shaved, but good grip and still being able to know exactly what your tires are doing was key for me.

Aside from the increased levels of grip, what should I expect going from the RA1s to V710s? Seems like I should be going for the 245/45/17s. What's the best place to buy, and should they be shaved as well?

Let's move onto handling. What's that larger front sway bar and a set of expensive struts going to do for us in AS? I'd like to hear from people who have actually done these mods.

 

I used 275 V710s without spacers and they rubbed in the front. With 5 mm spacers, they don't rub and handle very well. I competed in AS locally and had no real competition. Then I had to get an aftermarket clutch and went to BSP.

I got them heat cycled from Tire Rack for about $900 shipped. They have lasted a season and a half so far, and have at least another season in them (about 10 events a year, but some two driver events).

I'm competing against an STi with a better driver and about $10,000 worth of mods; full coilovers, more horsepower (claims 350 to the wheels, but I'd guess he's got that to the flywheel), strut braces, subframe braces, bushings. He has been turning FTD in several clubs locally.

I've got wider V710s (he's running 245 Hoosier A6's), a catback, and generic flash. He usually beats me by 0.1 to 0.5 seconds. If the surface is dicey, I beat him.

I like the way the car handles now. I would guess that changing shocks and bars would make a difference, but possibly not a good one. I can dial in or out oversteer with tire pressure and driving technique as it is. I'm not going to spend the $$$ on suspension until I feel that it is necessary. Another Evo here runs SM with cams, UTEC, full turboback, IC piping, and an AMS intercooler and runs FTD almost every time he shows on a stock suspension and RA1s. So I'm thinking more power and the driver mod first.

My $0.02.

 

There are quite a few competitive Evos in my region, but I'm the only one in AS. BSP, STU, and SM have lots of fast Evo drivers. When it comes to national level events seem like the Evo is not as competitive as the other cars, trying to hear from those that have given it a shot.

 

[QUOTE=Loser;4941883]
Aside from the increased levels of grip, what should I expect going from the RA1s to V710s? Seems like I should be going for the 245/45/17s. What's the best place to buy, and should they be shaved as well?
[QUOTE]

I ran that size V710 last year. They fit well on the stock wheels. You should expect more grip, and also faster wear. You'll should also expect to get no more than about 70-90 autocross runs out of them before they cord, depending on how long your runs are and how hard they are on tires.

To be really competitive, you need to go to 275, or 285-width tires, but that gets you into new wheels, spacers and/or fender rolling and pulling.

 

The Evo is a definite underdog in AS. It works well for local events, but it will get stomped by a well sorted S2000 or a GXP with the Z0K package on it. The car can't get enough camber with the stock suspension to allow R-compounds to work correctly, and the springs are way too soft. Here's my take on driving the Evo in AS:

 

Was this taken at Warminster?

 

Yup, it was taken at the May 6th event this year in one of the lane changes after the turnaround.