evo setup for autox stock class
Due to costs and longevity I've been told to go with the RA-1s in 255/40/17. Is this the best size to go on 8 inch wheel? Wouldn't it balloon too much at that width?
On the A046s I usually run around 35psi on the front and 33-34psi in the rear and I love the way the car behaves. What pressures are usually run on the RA-1s, and what would be equivalent to the pressures I have mentioned above?
On the A046s I usually run around 35psi on the front and 33-34psi in the rear and I love the way the car behaves. What pressures are usually run on the RA-1s, and what would be equivalent to the pressures I have mentioned above?
class). 35 psi front is quite low... I run over 40 psi front or it roll over onto the
sidewall (A046 or Neovas).
Almost everyone I know runs over 40psi. At 35psi I do see a few scuff marks around the top of the sidewall, but not too much to be of any concern. I'm not suggesting it to anyone, but it seems to work for me. Once it starts getting warmer I'll probably have to run a little higher.
Originally Posted by Loser
On the A046s I usually run around 35psi on the front and 33-34psi in the rear and I love the way the car behaves. What pressures are usually run on the RA-1s, and what would be equivalent to the pressures I have mentioned above?
Originally Posted by Loser
Finally, wheels. Was thinking of picking up a set of Enkei RPF1s (15.6lbs) or a set of TDR Pro Race 1.2s (19.8lbs looks nicer too 
) for a cheaper price. How much of an advantage does that weight difference translate to? The car and I are far from ready to compete at a national level, but it would still be nice to start building on a good setup.
) for a cheaper price. How much of an advantage does that weight difference translate to? The car and I are far from ready to compete at a national level, but it would still be nice to start building on a good setup.
Originally Posted by Loser
This does mean steel braided brake lines can be used right? For those without ABS, does upgrading the brake lines help with detecting that fine line between optimal braking and locking up?
My biggest problem with running in stock class is, the stock suspension isn't designed/capable of dealing with the higher grip offered by R-comp ( DOT approved
) tires ... It just feels as if one isn't utilizing the full potential of those expensive tires on the stock suspension.
My biggest problem with running in stock class is, the stock suspension isn't designed/capable of dealing with the higher grip offered by R-comp ( DOT approved
) tires ... It just feels as if one isn't utilizing the full potential of those expensive tires on the stock suspension.Note that the Evo, like many cars with front McPherson struts, is camber challenged in the sense that the more the car rolls, the less negative camber you have up front. This is not true of our rear suspension, which loses much less camber per degree of roll. This means that the more you roll the car due to cornering forces, the more it will understeer, because the front camber is reduced more than the rear camber. This can't be fixed by a stronger rear-sway bar, since, as I said, I was already lifting the inside rear wheel off the ground, and was still understeering. It can only be fixed by decreasing the roll angle, i.e. by a stiffer suspension. (After you go to a stiffer suspension, you may be able to use a stiffer rear sway bar to good effect.)
Anyway, this realization is why I'm moving to BSP this year: Stance coilovers and Buschur Stage 1. Maybe to be followed by a rear sway bar, but I'm going to test the balance of the car, first.
Michael
The pressures you are running on the stock tires are a little to low for auto-x but you already know that coz you are wearing into the side wall. The front to rear tire pressure will depend a lot on your stock alignment settings (eg: how much camber you have front and rear, etc).
After Sunday's autox I realized that tire pressure depends a lot on the surface and type of course. The course I usually run is heavy on fast slaloms and the grip is pretty decent. On Sunday I ran a course which had a few slow speed slalom but a lot of long sweeping corners, some off camber, and the surface wasn't that great. Aside from being very very cold (someone said in the mid twenties) I found it hard to get the car to rotate on some of the long corners. So next time on such courses I'll have to try some higher pressures.
I would also try a little less camber rear (-1.0?) and zero toe all around.
I run SK1 locally in the LA region which like a stock category class, but only allows street tires.
I was thinking about running azenis in the size 275/40/17 on a stock rim. Has anyone done this? Will there be rubbing issues?
I was thinking about running azenis in the size 275/40/17 on a stock rim. Has anyone done this? Will there be rubbing issues?
I'm running the 275/40/17 V710 on the fronts but that is with a ET33 wheel. I'd rather run something a little smaller but there are no sizes in between 245/45 and 275/40.
If I were you, I'd go with the 255/40/17 Azenis RT-615 instead. I know they fit.
If I were you, I'd go with the 255/40/17 Azenis RT-615 instead. I know they fit.
Since we know that 275/40/17 V710 fits on Evo's stock rims with a little rub so
I wonder how does V710 stack up against RT-615s in term of dimensions.
Overall Diameter:
V710: 25.4"
615: 25.6"
Section Width:
V710: 11.4"
615: 10.8"
Weight:
V710: 25lbs
615: 28.8lbs
Other than it's a bit tall.. should fit..
Let me know if you have success..:P