the OEM hardware uses serrated flange locknuts/bolts. but after they are used over and over, they don't work like they used to. (Some replace their bolts with a standard hex head bolt/nut that they found at the hardware and have no anti-vibration to them at all)

I think any gasket will blow out once clamping pressure is loosened up. at WOT, you are making some high exhaust pressure, not to mention the high temp too.

For heavy track use, safety wire. its easy and cheap, and you don't have to worry about it.

 

Ok, will do. We will try to safety wire it. Also both flange ends are truely flat now. My shop made sure of it. Also they used GTR hardware to replace the oem ones. They usually check and retighten after every session.

 

Quick Update!

Yay, no more bolts backing out or loosening. FINALLY! Problem free day. Was only .3s off my personal best with a 1:53.6xx at Buttonwillow 13CW. Temps were in the mid 40s to 50s.

1:53.396 was with sticker tires and a splitter/airdam/endplates and 20F hotter weather.

I still lost and got 2nd place lol. Lost to a fierce competitor who never say die, who did a 1:53.4xx on the last lap of the last session of the day. Talk about delivering when the pressure is on.

 

GTR hardware was used, both flanges was decked flat. Some other tricks were used to make sure it doesn't happen again, but it was not safety-wired this time.

 

agreed- but just saying- we dont have an issue-

cb

 

Here is my hotlap from Sunday. 1:53.693. No splitter.

 

Yes I know this is an old thread.

I have been battling exhaust manifold to turbo housing leaks for years.

Couple of years ago, I thought I had solved after resurfacing of both surfaces, another new gasket and reverting back to genuine Mitsubishi bolts. That lasted several track days. Then I went to the most expensive event I have ever gone to and the dam thing let go. It is not a matter a slipping a new gasket in there between sessions.

I have tried titanium studs, inconel studs, different exhaust manifolds, different brand gaskets, I'm going around in circles and getting tired.

After this most recent episode, getting one of the bolts out took several days. I'm surprised I got it out at all. I have run a tap through the housing and can get a stud/bolt in there OK now, but I have little confidence in the situation.

Both surfaces appear to be warped again, centre being low on both. I know these parts run hot, but there must be a way to get more hours of use? This isn't the only turbo car in the world.

This is not a daily driver, I bought it for track use. It has been a ton of fun and low stress track machine. I let anyone drive it. Tuner was told to keep it conservative for long track sessions. It has about 270awkw, not that I care about the numbers. I run the car on slicks and have brake cooling, never wanted to set a lap time with 1000hp. The car is fun chasing very expensive alternatives.

Initially I thought the bolts were coming loose. I tried various techniques, even welding a ring spanner from one bolt to another, and that did not work, I think the bolts stretch. Or the threads stretch? Or the whole mating parts are warping in ways hard to explain.

Any ideas here? Different gasket? Kick my tuner? Lower my expectations?! Buy an NA car? Keep the revs under 3000?!

 

It’s late so I’m not putting a ton in to this post, maybe I’ll remember and post more tomorrow.
But I’ve solved these issues in my 9 and my friends X with the same methods.

1- I reverted both cars to use OEM like turbo setups. Mine has an FP green, his has a ATP/Garret Gen2, both with ARTEC EX manifolds.

2- use all the OEM support brackets with ALL OEM hardware and torqued to OEM specs.

3- where possible, safety wire all the manifold to turbo, turbo to o2 housing, o2 to downpipe. I sourced all special TI pre drilled nuts and where not possible to use a stud & nut, I used pre drilled TI bolts and got decently good at using safety wire with special pliers and wire.

4- use only OEM gaskets.

5- use nickel based anti seize.

 

i think its your bolts. i used standard black studs and copper "egg" locking nuts. never had problems

 

That bolt with the funky thread was a genuine Mitsubishi grade 11 bolt.

I have some genuine Mitsubishi studs on hand here, but have had problems with them also.

I have faced the exhaust manifold and the turbo housing, each was warped about 1mm.

Not sure if the surfaces warped because the gasket failed or the surfaces warped and then the gasket failed............

 

This 100 percent a skill issue. Evo Xs are not as easy as Evo 8/9 when it comes reinstalling the turbo. The issue is the middle mounting bracket is at an angle. The other two brackets are for adding stability to the assembly. The one for the turbo inlet helps keep the turbo from moving off angle. The one for the downpipe helps support the exhaust and keep it from putting leverage on the exhaust manifold.

The key to mounting the turbo is to get the bottom bolt in first and then to rotate the assembly until you get it into the right orientation for mating the exhaust manifold to the turbo housing. The orientation is important because we are dealing with angled mating surfaces. It doesn't matter how tight you can get the bolts if the surfaces are not flat. I usually see botched installs when it comes to this because the bolts will either back out or the gasket will get burned up.

I learned about this because when I installed the turbo out of the car I can see how much play there is in each mounting bracket. There is a large amount of tolerance but that is because its hard to get everything lined up without it.

Dropping the motor and doing the turbo out of the engine bay will take less time than installing the turbo in the car which also gives you the ability to inspect the positions of the brackets and mating surfaces.

 

Time to upgrade to the artec vband manifold and no more gaskets

 

Dropping the engine out of an Evo X is absolutely not the fastest way to change the turbo. Can be done in car in about 4.5-5hrs at a comfortable pace, with retaining the turbine housing and compressor housing mounting brackets.

I like using ARP 8740 Chromoly hardware. Holds up well, and way less likely to gall like the stock stainless hardware. Still use the OEM double belleville washer setup though.

 

I dropped the engine in about 4 hours took off the turbo and put a new one back on in about an hour. I don't cut corners too. Every bracket and bolt is put back on.

I know he isn't going to drop an engine to install a turbo but just saying that's the best way to see and figure out what you are doing wrong.

I didnt realize the stock hardware was stainless steel hardware. I thought it was different alloy but those bolts are tough. I switch over to ARP as well. ARP has chromoly and stainless. I also use the OEM belleville washers. They are expensive and I wish I knew where to get them. Buying them from Mitsubishi is expensive especially when you need 8 new ones.