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We have never had an issue with those if you use OEM gaskets- the OEM hardware- and proper rated anti-seize- tighten them properly-
cb
the OEM hardware uses serrated flange locknuts/bolts. but after they are used over and over, they don't work like they used to. (Some replace their bolts with a standard hex head bolt/nut that they found at the hardware and have no anti-vibration to them at all)
I think any gasket will blow out once clamping pressure is loosened up. at WOT, you are making some high exhaust pressure, not to mention the high temp too.
For heavy track use, safety wire. its easy and cheap, and you don't have to worry about it.
Ok, will do. We will try to safety wire it. Also both flange ends are truely flat now. My shop made sure of it. Also they used GTR hardware to replace the oem ones. They usually check and retighten after every session.
Yay, no more bolts backing out or loosening. FINALLY! Problem free day. Was only .3s off my personal best with a 1:53.6xx at Buttonwillow 13CW. Temps were in the mid 40s to 50s.
1:53.396 was with sticker tires and a splitter/airdam/endplates and 20F hotter weather.
I still lost and got 2nd place lol. Lost to a fierce competitor who never say die, who did a 1:53.4xx on the last lap of the last session of the day. Talk about delivering when the pressure is on.
GTR hardware was used, both flanges was decked flat. Some other tricks were used to make sure it doesn't happen again, but it was not safety-wired this time.
the OEM hardware uses serrated flange locknuts/bolts. but after they are used over and over, they don't work like they used to. (Some replace their bolts with a standard hex head bolt/nut that they found at the hardware and have no anti-vibration to them at all)
I think any gasket will blow out once clamping pressure is loosened up. at WOT, you are making some high exhaust pressure, not to mention the high temp too.
For heavy track use, safety wire. its easy and cheap, and you don't have to worry about it.
I have been battling exhaust manifold to turbo housing leaks for years.
Couple of years ago, I thought I had solved after resurfacing of both surfaces, another new gasket and reverting back to genuine Mitsubishi bolts. That lasted several track days. Then I went to the most expensive event I have ever gone to and the dam thing let go. It is not a matter a slipping a new gasket in there between sessions.
I have tried titanium studs, inconel studs, different exhaust manifolds, different brand gaskets, I'm going around in circles and getting tired.
After this most recent episode, getting one of the bolts out took several days. I'm surprised I got it out at all. I have run a tap through the housing and can get a stud/bolt in there OK now, but I have little confidence in the situation.
Both surfaces appear to be warped again, centre being low on both. I know these parts run hot, but there must be a way to get more hours of use? This isn't the only turbo car in the world.
This is not a daily driver, I bought it for track use. It has been a ton of fun and low stress track machine. I let anyone drive it. Tuner was told to keep it conservative for long track sessions. It has about 270awkw, not that I care about the numbers. I run the car on slicks and have brake cooling, never wanted to set a lap time with 1000hp. The car is fun chasing very expensive alternatives.
Initially I thought the bolts were coming loose. I tried various techniques, even welding a ring spanner from one bolt to another, and that did not work, I think the bolts stretch. Or the threads stretch? Or the whole mating parts are warping in ways hard to explain.
Any ideas here? Different gasket? Kick my tuner? Lower my expectations?! Buy an NA car? Keep the revs under 3000?!
It’s late so I’m not putting a ton in to this post, maybe I’ll remember and post more tomorrow.
But I’ve solved these issues in my 9 and my friends X with the same methods.
1- I reverted both cars to use OEM like turbo setups. Mine has an FP green, his has a ATP/Garret Gen2, both with ARTEC EX manifolds.
2- use all the OEM support brackets with ALL OEM hardware and torqued to OEM specs.
3- where possible, safety wire all the manifold to turbo, turbo to o2 housing, o2 to downpipe. I sourced all special TI pre drilled nuts and where not possible to use a stud & nut, I used pre drilled TI bolts and got decently good at using safety wire with special pliers and wire.
