^ right on.

An alignment can change everything. you could do everything possible to promote understeer but if it has too much rear toe out, its going to want to oversteer.

 

Honestly it's a daily but its a car that I'd definitely like to entertain quite a few track days if possible. Circuit being the most likely. My seat time gets better and better and i've been pushing the car and familiarizing myself with the characteristics of the car more and more since I've gotten it so its only getting better. I've read a lot of good threads on here and a lot of what you guys are suggesting are very helpful.

Honestly at higher speeds on straights 120+ the front feels light almost. When I used to daily my race car before it made 900+whp (toyota mr2) even that was pretty stable up top. Now im not saying this isn't but I know it could be better. So i did some searching and only thing I could come up with was yes a proper alignment because since I added the coils I havn't gotten one and down force mods especially because I have no front under tray and then go from there.

 

not sure if it's been said but: keep the stock sway bars and realign the clutch packs in your rear diff. H U G E difference. the car will power out of turns like it's supposed to.
also: take some of the rake out of the car. Evos come with a TON of rake which looks great but promotes pushing. if your fender gaps front/rear are even, you have lots of rake. measure the jack points under the car. try to keep the rear 15mm higher than the front. you will notice the car feeling much more neutral. these two changes have made the most difference in how my car handles (even more than the KWs in installed).

both these mods are free, if you are mechanically inclined. once those two major flaws are fixed, then you can start making improvements.

 

if you installed coilOVERS and did not get an alignment, you are quite brave for driving it that fast. you can't expect it to handle properly without an alignment. downforce is not your issue.

 

"Brave" is not the word that I would have used.

 

believe me I understand. I'm jumping on that this week as well as quite a few other things that are needed on the old girl. Just wanted some opinions on what I should also do in the process being as we seem to have some pretty knowledgeable people in this section. I didnt want the typical high horsepower evo route for this car I just want a neutral well handling car.

We only learn by experience and the influence of those who have done it before us. I'm still new to the chassis so its just been lots of changes since owning it.

 

i'm being nice. we all started somewhere.

well, at least you are researching and trying to learn. i do that every day. an alignment is absolutely necessary before you can make any changes. get that done, then see how your car drives. trust me, though: lower that rear end (or raise the front) to get the rake set first. you will notice a big difference or your money back! the drawback is these cars look REALLY good with a lot or rake LOL. you should see the gap on my front fender

 

I'm confused. You've done track days or not?

What do you mean by "circuit"?

 

Circuit = road course.

 

As far as the undertray - install the stock one. It help with cooling of the radiator, transfer case and brakes. There are air guides that help direct air to the brakes and to the fins on the transfer case- aftermarket flat ones don't have those. There is a low pressure area designed into the tray for downforce but unsure how much it helps (not sure how much those plastic clips could hold lol).

Skip the rear diff mod for now, everyone seems to be on the bandwagon of jumping to this mod before they do the basics (like rear swaybar).
So do a rear swarbar, camber plates and a good alignment before anything else. Figure out what your springs rates have and up them.

 

Good advice. As we noted, get the RSB & run your car (after alignment)

 

The rear diff mod is not so much a "mod" as it is putting the car back to how it was originally designed. The rear diff was set up soft for the American market so as to avoid possible warranty claims from us retarded American buyers.

 

either way should help. i fixed the rear diff for free and it works sooooooooo much better.

 

Even if I happen to agree with more rear bar and adjustable front plates, while not really having a strong opinion on the rear diff, I more strongly believe that continuing to discuss this before the thread-starter gets an alignment and gets some more seat time in the Evo will actually do him or her more harm than good. An MR2 is a completely different car. The handling of any car with a messed-up alignment is irrelevant. This entire thread has no meaningful premise.

 

yeah huh. it gives us a chance to bench race.