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yea I read up on rake a bit too. My car is actually slightlyyy higher in the front too. Not sure what the exact rake is but I know the front is slightly higher. I'll get a pic for you guys.

Yes road course. I have lime rock and new jersey motorsports park near me. I havnt been on them yet but its something i'd like to get into.

 

when checking the rake, go by the pinch weld/jacking points under the car. the front fender arch is higher than the rear, so you can't go by that. like i said, my car has a 15mm rake, but has a much larger gap at the front fender than rear.

take advantage of those tracks! there's nothing like it. even if you only do it once. i took one of my old cars to Laguna Seca. it was definitely a bucket-list moment. i'd LOVE to drive Lime Rock, though.

 

Yea same thing I was thinking. Before I make a full switch to other coil overs I was also considering switching them for swift springs and also go a bit stiffer out back like many have suggested.

You've said it a few times already. You tired of typing yet? I've learned quitea few things just from this one thread. That's the purpose of people informing others. If its so irrelevant then go browse in the show and shine section and check out the newest stance items up for display.

 

Now when you say yours has 15 mm of rake are you just referring to the difference between the front and the rear? Front is 15mm higher basically?

 

yes, front to rear. our cars come from the factory with a TON of rake. i think i read about 30mm or so. i don't remember really. but no: the rear is higher. the added rake makes the car more stable in a straight line and promotes understear. i'm assuming they come this way to make the car safer to drive. some people like their car level, but it seems most people in AX, HPDE, etc like a bit of rake. right around 15mm. that's where i set mine and i really like it.

for most people, i'm not sure any of this is a big deal. i'm all about doing any free stuff i can to get my car working better. i also rearranged the clutch packs in my rear diff. it's a whole new car, i tell ya.

 

20mm is closer to correct. Of course, even just a change in alignment can alter the rake a little bit. tee hee

 

What are some good base alignment settings for what I'm trying to do guys?

 

depends how long you want your tires to last. it's a spectrum of tire life on one side and grip on the other. you have to find the balance that is good for you.
i don't daily my car so i run 2.5* camber front, 1.5* rear, 0 toe front/rear. if i did daily it, i'd go stock specs all the way around. some people run a TON of camber but mostly because they have dedicated track cars.
figure what kind of driving you will be doing the most of, how much you are willing to spend, how much performance you really need, and go from there. if you daily and are just getting into HPDE or AX, then you could probably just leave the settings stock for now. you will have just as much fun with less hassle. just my opinion, of course.

 

Videos or it didn't happen...

 

SWAT MR2 on youtube. You'll see it through its stages. None of it with its current set up thats almost done though

 

Sounds pretty good. I'll get to it then!

 

Thanks for not linking to your "exploits" on the streets.

I would suggest a smidgeon of rear toe-in - maybe .04 per side - until you're used to the car.

 

quote: Its got BC coil overs on it now which I'd like to swap for KW's but thats down the road.

Sorry for hijacking this to go offtopic from what its on, but my +2 cents, KW is a good coil, but over priced, might as well go with Ohlins theyre just as good, 1k less the price.

 

Yes why is everyone suggesting the rear diff mod he is obviously not ready for this or a rear swaybar upgrade either.

Get your alignment done first then post here with pic before/after specs.

Then if you one day want to do trackdays just take your car the way it currently sits! No upgrades needed!

 

Depends. Ohlins are single-adjustable, KW is double. I believe KW is in the $2,500 range and Ohlins is around $2,700 unassembled. More if you get them put together. I’m sure of the Ohlins pricing.. not so much the KW.


It’s not a mod, just putting it together correctly. It doesn’t make the car unstable or scary to drive, IMO. Then again, I don’t know what type of drive OP is.
on a tangent, I’m not sure why so many people are against fixing the rear diff. I would think more people would be unhappy with it being put together incorrectly. It does the same thing as a rear sway bar: tunes out quite a bit of understeer. Or at least it did on my car. Why would I spend money on a rear sway bar to do the same thing when I can fix the rear diff for free? That’s how I looked at it, anyway. I no longer have the need for a sway bar. However, if someone doesn’t feel comfortable performing the work, I could see why they would do the bar.
i do agree that he may as well just drive the car as-is for the moment. especially since pushing a lot more safe than over steer. once it's aligned correctly, he'll need to get used to it all over again. i'm sure he's gonna love it.