RaceFab wet sump pan
#482
Goes back to the "to each their own" when it comes to fluids getting changed, but I think most of those guys aren't running $12 quart oil for the same reason.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
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hokiruu (Jan 22, 2020)
#483
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Balrok
Goes back to the "to each their own" when it comes to fluids getting changed, but I think most of those guys aren't running $12 quart oil for the same reason.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
That's a great idea for oil cooler lines. I will probably be stealing it lol
#484
Evolved Member
Goes back to the "to each their own" when it comes to fluids getting changed, but I think most of those guys aren't running $12 quart oil for the same reason.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
#485
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
I have the oem cooler still. Lots of pics on here of front cooler setups though. When I do finally do that it'll be some kind of Setrab like cooler with AN fittings on the cooler and banjo's on the filter housing. Yes more expensive but if you spend as much time as I do with your head in the wheel well you notice how little room there is between the filter and other parts so a 90 seems like a waste of space. But the main reason would be durability - when you've had a tire let go on track slapping itself around in there you want things to be bang/crush proof as possible.
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hokiruu (Jan 22, 2020)
#486
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Really only need 8an for a stock location cooler. The metal parts of the OEM cooler lines are 12mm OD. So ID likely isn't even as big as 8an. 8an fittings have and ID of .390", or 9.90mm.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jul 18, 2018 at 01:25 PM.
#487
Evolved Member
#489
Evolved Member
Alu one with longer radius is a normal 90 deg fitting.. nice thing about these is that this one has a metric thread on one side and AN on other so no additional adapters nedeed which keeps overall height low...
#490
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (41)
I wired up a warning light/buzzer that works with its own oil pressure sensor off the filter housing. I set it up to go off if pressure goes under 60 psi when I’m over 3000 rpm. This weekend it went off only one time when the car snapped sideways violently mid-turn in the Hammer at Shenandoah (oops). Otherwise, it was quiet. Harry’s shows 1.1g in most turns, though many of the hardest turns are lefts on that track. Stock pan with a Kiggly HLA. Maybe I need better tires...
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Project_Broke (Jul 23, 2018)
#491
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
I wired up a warning light/buzzer that works with its own oil pressure sensor off the filter housing. I set it up to go off if pressure goes under 60 psi when I’m over 3000 rpm. This weekend it went off only one time when the car snapped sideways violently mid-turn in the Hammer at Shenandoah (oops). Otherwise, it was quiet. Harry’s shows 1.1g in most turns, though many of the hardest turns are lefts on that track. Stock pan with a Kiggly HLA. Maybe I need better tires...
#493
On the topic of plugs for this pan, I was recently browsing STM for some OEM spares when I came across a note on the Trans and TS drain plugs saying they were 18mm. I thought hmmmmm, might they be 18x1.5 like the racefab threads. Low and behold they are. So for 7 bucks and change including the gasket you can have a MEGA or medium magnet that threads right in depending on if you opt for the trans or tcase plugs. While the Trans plug magnet is massive, it does take some patience to start the threads because of it's fighting to hit the sides of the pan. They also weigh less it feels then the one he gave us with the pans. You'll also notice the seating surface is a bit wider on the mitsu plug offering more torque to the gasket. Hex ups from 22mm to 24mm of course.
#495
Haven't used it since I started making my own splitters which use two of those bolting locations. Plus it make exhaust work painful, etc etc etc. My cage makes the car a fair bit stiffer then those two bars will ever provide. Took me 5 or 6 years to convince myself of that though lol.