My RaceFab sump arrives early this week. Do I need to pick up a new pickup gasket? What gasket maker is best? I think I have a can of Right Stuff unopened, but I feel like I’ve heard about HondaBond and a couple of others. Is the included drain plug okay?

Thanks!

 

There is no gasket, so you use RTV. Everyone seems to love Hondabond for some reason. I used Permatex Ultra Grey and think the manual also specifies some 3m brand as a suitable gasket maker over the OEM Mitsubond. They should all work fine just keep note of which side some of the RTV goes in relation to the bolts. And factory drain plug is fine or you can pick up a magnetic one instead.

 

Gratz. Hondabond, mitsubond if it's laying around. Threebond original if you're buying something new as it's exactly the same but cheaper. Right stuff is too quick to set and too messy for me. You'll need to also add the Tomei scraper. Then for the plug his is "ok" but if you want one with a magnet our OEM tranny plug works excellent. I forget if the pickup had a paper gasket but if it does yes absolutely new - never reuse that stuff.

 

Pickup uses a paper gasket, def replace it.

I use right stuff gray on the oil pan. Stuff never leaks.

I second getting a tomei scraper setup.

 

You mind sharing the price when it was all said and done?

 

It’s here!

 

So, obviously it needs to be cleaned before install. Do I need to take it to a shop with a parts washer, or do you think it just needs to be flushed with brake cleaner?

I had not planned on the scraper. I am a little concerned about the install of that, in particular making the judgment whether it is running too close to the crank. My crank is stock, but my bottom end has been redone by Buschur years ago and the motor has been perfect. So, I'm a little unsure whether I want to touch anything beyond the pan.

 

With today's exchange rate and including a new pan and pickup, plus shipping, it was $1,005 USD.

 

 

I found those photos above on Facebook. It doesn't actually look too bad to install that setup. Should I expect to need to bend or grind anything to have sufficient clearance? I found some instructions on line for the Cosworth suggesting that you need to have .060" clearance from the counterweights, so I guess you rotate the motor with the plugs out and check that with a feeler gauge?

 

I didn't have to bend anything with an Eagle 94mm crank and Carrillo Pro-H rods. An 88mm crank should have PLENTY of clearance.

 

The closer the better. When Boostin built my motor they spent a little extra time clearancing it. And its a standard rod, 2.0 and stock crank so nothing out of the ordinary either.

 

Is 88 mm the thickness of the counterweight? .060" is like 1.5mm, so you are saying you didn't need to clearance it using counterweights that were 6mm wider than stock?

 

If it fits super loose like letsgetitdone is saying, then I'm not sure what could be done to clearance it? Bend it closer to the counterweights?

 

I'm referring to the stroke of the crank. And the eagle does have wider counterweights, but I'm not sure how much wider.