heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Yeah EVAP and charcoal canister would have been in the way for me in that position. Its certainly cleaner tucked under the car vs being in the trunk but as I mentioned I wanted the pump protected from the elements. As far as hearing the pump in the trunk, well yeah I hear it build pressure but other than that whatever IDGAF, lol.

I trimmed the fat from the stock bracket and it ended up looking like this.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Nice, always cool to see how others did it.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Absolutely. There are a few pics floating around on here by different members as well as a couple write ups summaries etc but there is also conflicting info on best way to run the line wire gauge etc. Like anything that's custom like this its ultimately up to the discretion of the person doing the modification to make it fit their needs and be deemed satisfactory from a fit and finish perspective. As such multiple angles helps said person make an informed decision.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm thinking trunk, with aeroquip lines in order to keep all my smog stuff and ease of install (relatively speaking). I'll also toss my battery back there to move another 15lbs.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

last year, my car was 3240 competition weight (me in car), and the f/r ratio was 60/40. that's with A/C removed and small battery in trunk. since the hp/weight ration changed for this year, i needed to add weight to the car. my comp weight now is 3420, i added 120 lbs on ballast to the rear passenger side foot floor and put the mustache bar back on (20 lbs more than AMS kit). all that and my f/r ratio only changed to 59/41, lol. but more importantly, my left/right ratio is 50/50 now, i can definitely tell the car is more balanced and feel heavier. when you add ballast, you want to keep it as low as possible and closest to the axle as possible, but not pass it.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Okay, so there's no point in trying to balance the car, front to back LOL .

That makes things a lot easier. Now I can just go all Willie Nilly on trying to get the car as light as possible.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I would LOVE to get my car to sub 3000# but my challenge comes with the fact that I dont wanna hack up my car. As it stands I think I have built the perfect street car which is still competitive locally which is all the racing I do at this point. In order to trim the fat it seems I either need to spend big money on lightweight parts or hack up the car trimming off excess brackets stripping gutting etc but all of this leads to a car that is no longer streetable and seems silly to do on my platform being an SSL. Part of what I think makes my car so unique is its flexibility. And I think its cool showing up in a street driven car beating out trailer queens.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm with you. If I had a moon roof, etc then I'd just enjoy the car as well. I'd really like a GSR as a daily. Wheels, exhaust, lowering springs and done. But....buying a second one is no where near in my budget LOL.
Beating up on race cars is always fun. But don't hate on those of us that trailer when we can. It's cheaper than a tow truck, if something disastrous happens 😛
As for lightweight parts? Yah. Cray Cray. Like front sub frames....
$$$$

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Street car? What's that? For how streetable my car looks it sucks to drive anywhere. Too stiff, loud, hot, loud, something, loud...


But I have a 14' S4 to slum in so just not concerned with streetability anymore

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Yeah see its exactly that. As a daily I love my sunroof so when I have bad thoughts along the lines of "hey that"s like 40# in the absolute worst place get rid of it and then it's hot out and Im like ahhh its good to have a sunrood, lol! And no hate on towing the car, my plan is to buy a truck and then a trailer so maybe deep down im just jealous.

But hey my car is a true street car. Im probably more insane than most, run e85 30# all day err day 650/800# springs poly and sphericals all around and 285's since I havent bought a new set of 17's since I stepped up to my big boys. Sure the car is loud and makes it hard to talk on the phone but hey thats what texting and driving is for, lol! But seriously there is an easy 30-40# just in removing the rear seats and belts and another probably 30# with sound deadening carpet padding etc but I can only imagine the car will be even louder so I can't decide if it'll be worth it.

So once again I think I need to finally get a real DD and then I can get a lil crazier.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

With the path I have I'm certain 27xx is completely possible, maybe even low 27xx at full crazy mode. I haven't done any of rear weight things like diff brackets, washer pump, rear wiper, gutting trunk/hood sheet metal, etc.

My crazy thoughts are if running a 27xx car with 275s slammed to the GROUND! (ok, just another inch lower) would be a faster setup than wider, taller, and big heavy tires. Roll centers are no longer a concern of mine and another inch lower is certainly in the range of happy with my setup.

I feel like to catch up to the 240sx, something crazy and different needs to be tried and I'm just the idiot to do it!

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Well we all know weight trumps all. Weight is the only thing that impacts acceleration braking cornering, hell even MPG's not that we care about that, lol. But when my buddy races a CSP prepped Miata weighing in at ~2000# on 275's and my turd weights 3200# Im like wtf and my 285's just wont cut it. Of course I can always add more tire (within reason) but what my cars needs badly is to go on a serious diet.

I would love to get to sub 3000#'s but Im not sure that is even realistic. Your platform being an SE is arguably the best one to start with being close in weight to the RS but still having ABS. But for me to shed another 200#'s seems I either need to drop serious coin which I can't justify or strip it in which it seems everything I tried to build aka a streetable yet fast car is no longer valid.

I've gone through the official weight reduction thread and Im just not seeing the light (no pun intended) I know there are some crafty things to be done and it all adds up but 200# is a significant amount and removing a couple excess brackets isn't going to get me there although it is a step in the right direction.

If you don't mind me asking, you said you're around 3000#, correct? Do you mind sharing what you have done to get there? While my time is scarce these days, I still can't seem to grasp the concept of my time being valuable so I have a much harder time throwing money at it vs spending my time working hard to accomplish the goal.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

I'm down in the low 29xx range now. I've don't all the common things and started moving into some of the uncommon things. Notable things I can think of off the top of my head:


Lithium battery, no stereo, no sound deadening including dash pad, AC fully removed, removed balance shafts, billet hubs (6lbs lighter per side), stock front swaybar (lighter than aftermarket), no emissions gear, lightweight brake rotors, Rear seats and belts removed, and I'm sure more.


There are things the SE just starts lighter too so of course I have that going for me too. Things I still haven't done:


Stock Front seats and belts, Airbags, Engine side firewall mat, stock hood and trunk, engine and rear diff mounts, rear wiper motor and reservoir pump, the heavy HID headlights (standard lights are a bit lighter), ultra light front rotors (5-6lbs lighter than the basic light weight), hydraulic to relocated electric power steering, heavy 2.3l engine build vs ~10lbs lighter 2.2l build, lightweight driveshaft, lighter engine fan, light weight wheel spacers/arp studs/lugs (2.5lb total saving), MOAR BILLET GOODNESS!...


So, lots of things I can still do even being in the low 29xx range. Will get accurate weight at Packwood tour but for now can only guess based on past weights.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

3000 should be doable. I'm at 3100 with only rear seats and trunk carpet pulled. Another 100 sounds like a lot...But possible, though expensive.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

What are these billet hubs you speak of? By hub do you mean like wheel bearing assembly or your custom knuckles you've been working on? Either way daymmm son thats 24# right there. Oh course those are right in there with lighter brakes driveshaft subframes and other misc weight shedding trick parts that cost $$$.

I think Im just bit**ing outloud here so I do apologize in advance as I whine about not wanting to spend stupid money on lightweight parts yet also dont wanna hack up my car. I get that something needs to give so I probably sound foolish as im sitting here typing...it's a moral dilemna of mine. I think once I buy a true DD then I wont feel so bad about removing radio rear seats sound deadening etc. But for now I think I may regret the decision.