Measuring Braking Temps
#17
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
That horse has been beaten quite a bit. There ...still....really isn't a true hybrid pad just like there isn't a ...true....hybrid slick. The ones that claim hybrid status are best at AX but at 3k+lbs coming down from 120+mph in 80+deg heat (even at stock power cause da evo is fast) they'll glaze over. And remember a glazed pad doesn't come back. What you need to realize is that if you want to be safe and function, you'll need to swap real pads before and after events. Which pads for race and which for street I'm sure you already have an idea.
As for rotor temps, a typical steel alloy glows (really glows) at around 1200, so any photo searches you'll find that is abundant even on HPDE cars. Looking back through my notes when we were testing with AP we were between 1200 and 1500, peaking at 1800 just to abuse it (no ducts).
As for rotor temps, a typical steel alloy glows (really glows) at around 1200, so any photo searches you'll find that is abundant even on HPDE cars. Looking back through my notes when we were testing with AP we were between 1200 and 1500, peaking at 1800 just to abuse it (no ducts).
#18
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
I'd have thought the Girodisc were superior even to the OE 2pc design of the Evo X. Superior as in ability to disipate heat.
Some of you guys with Evo X control arms and calipers make me wish I had gone that route!
#19
Evolved Member
iTrader: (55)
logically, it would make sense that the evo x would be cooler. larger diameter, more rotor mass, more surface area ect. i know my pads last longer and dont need as much pedal pressure to engage abs. so less brake pressure overall.
i'm also running evo x mr two piece rotors. and have not checked rotor temp in hot pit with them.
i'm also running evo x mr two piece rotors. and have not checked rotor temp in hot pit with them.
#20
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
That horse has been beaten quite a bit. There ...still....really isn't a true hybrid pad just like there isn't a ...true....hybrid slick. The ones that claim hybrid status are best at AX but at 3k+lbs coming down from 120+mph in 80+deg heat (even at stock power cause da evo is fast) they'll glaze over. And remember a glazed pad doesn't come back. What you need to realize is that if you want to be safe and function, you'll need to swap real pads before and after events. Which pads for race and which for street I'm sure you already have an idea.
As for rotor temps, a typical steel alloy glows (really glows) at around 1200, so any photo searches you'll find that is abundant even on HPDE cars. Looking back through my notes when we were testing with AP we were between 1200 and 1500, peaking at 1800 just to abuse it (no ducts).
As for rotor temps, a typical steel alloy glows (really glows) at around 1200, so any photo searches you'll find that is abundant even on HPDE cars. Looking back through my notes when we were testing with AP we were between 1200 and 1500, peaking at 1800 just to abuse it (no ducts).
#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (55)
you can street drive any track pads as long as you dont mind the dust and noise. track pads are usually not loud after a track events, until after a few days of street driving where the transfer layer are rubbed off, then they get loud. the only time i swap back to street pads is during winter.
#25
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
#26
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
You're over thinking this......Here is the info the majority of us regular track guys will need to give you the best advice on brakes.
What tire and size are you running?
How much hp are you running?
What suspension are you running?
What is your level of experience with track days?
What tire and size are you running?
How much hp are you running?
What suspension are you running?
What is your level of experience with track days?
#27
You're over thinking this......Here is the info the majority of us regular track guys will need to give you the best advice on brakes.
What tire and size are you running? re71r, 245/45-17
How much hp are you running? 300whp (virtual dyno) minor bolt ons, stock turbo & boost, etc.
What suspension are you running? ohlins 8/10, some bars & bushings
What is your level of experience with track days? 3 HPDEs
What tire and size are you running? re71r, 245/45-17
How much hp are you running? 300whp (virtual dyno) minor bolt ons, stock turbo & boost, etc.
What suspension are you running? ohlins 8/10, some bars & bushings
What is your level of experience with track days? 3 HPDEs
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-thread.html
Read through this thread that Smike wrote a while back. I'll go in to more detail later today in another post.
Read through this thread that Smike wrote a while back. I'll go in to more detail later today in another post.
#29
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
that's interesting, I've read otherwise when used cold
I guess though in this case it boils down to experience, which is more or less anecdotal. just seems odd, if a company releases a new pad and gives a temp range, you gotta be able to know what temps you're reaching to know if it's right for you?
I guess though in this case it boils down to experience, which is more or less anecdotal. just seems odd, if a company releases a new pad and gives a temp range, you gotta be able to know what temps you're reaching to know if it's right for you?
#30
Evolved Member
iTrader: (16)
Just to be a bit different than the it doesn't really matter too much guys, do you have a way to datalog? If you have something that can measure 0-5v outputs you can get IR sensors very cheap and mount one up to measure the face of the disk. You'd probably want something with a fairly wide viewing angle to average the temperature of the face of the rotor because it can vary from closest to center to farthest from center.
Just measuring with an IR gun afterwards isn't terrible either as iron doesn't shed heat as quickly as aluminum, so you can probably get decent numbers.
On our time attack racecar, which needs brake performance from the coldest temps to the hottest temps (because we generally only do 1 or 2 flying laps with little warmup) we use CL RC-8 brake pads. They are sintered iron pads that rally guys love because they work in all situations. They aren't cheap but very easy on brake rotors and long lasting.
Dan
Just measuring with an IR gun afterwards isn't terrible either as iron doesn't shed heat as quickly as aluminum, so you can probably get decent numbers.
On our time attack racecar, which needs brake performance from the coldest temps to the hottest temps (because we generally only do 1 or 2 flying laps with little warmup) we use CL RC-8 brake pads. They are sintered iron pads that rally guys love because they work in all situations. They aren't cheap but very easy on brake rotors and long lasting.
Dan