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So as not to clog this with unobtainium lug nut discussion - I've run about everything out there even the CBRD Ti lugs. At the end of the day the steel dorman's or whatever you find that have a half decent hex length and are OPEN ended work best. You WILL loose them along the way so it makes the most sense to get ones you can find at or near the track when you do.
that's what I figured, wouldn't make sense otherwise really. do OEM wheels that have bores that match the hubs bear no force/weight on them then?
Nope, it just centers the wheel. In the case of an OEM Evo wheel, it is 100% needed because the mag-shank style lug nut doesn't center the wheel as you tighten it. The advantage of a mag-shank lug nut is you get a "truer" due to less friction where the lug nut meets the wheel.
Originally Posted by Balrok
So as not to clog this with unobtainium lug nut discussion - I've run about everything out there even the CBRD Ti lugs. At the end of the day the steel dorman's or whatever you find that have a half decent hex length and are OPEN ended work best. You WILL loose them along the way so it makes the most sense to get ones you can find at or near the track when you do.
Lug nuts and studs are fairly valid discussion in nay motorsport thread. No one wants to be like me last year... .......
with bolt on spacers, the spacers is bolted on to the hub, then the wheels is bolted on the the spacers. that just introduce more points of failure. most common thing that's ive seen is the spacers to the hub get loose, i've never seen complete failure though. but you can see how thin the lugnut seat is on the spacer, that just worries me.
youve known me long enought to know im lazy to an extent LOL. the wheel stud job never looked easy.
i torque the spacers before each track event. have never come loose...ever.
this was my first ever true fab project, pretty happy with how it came out, realistically my first time doing some serious welding too. now i have room for a nice diffuser finally, and dropped 6 pounds.
yea i just ordered those mutegi open ended ones, the blox ones look nice without being too far out there though. good point about replacement costs though.
youve known me long enought to know im lazy to an extent LOL. the wheel stud job never looked easy.
i torque the spacers before each track event. have never come loose...ever.
this was my first ever true fab project, pretty happy with how it came out, realistically my first time doing some serious welding too. now i have room for a nice diffuser finally, and dropped 6 pounds.
Honestly it's a joke on how easy the front ARP stud installation is, it's actually kind of fun knocking the little OEM ones out and impacting the New ones in.
As for the SR48's, I've used the same set now for now 3 years on two different evos with the ARP studs. I switch from DD wheels to my track/autocross set up(17x9.5 +38 Rpf1's) on an avg of 1-2 times a month, sometimes even more. Zero issues even when using an impact. Both of these products are damn near indestructible lol
As for the hub-centric rings, my JM Fab 20mm spacer has it in the front and I've been using Enkei's plastic ones in the rear with no issues. Don't think it gets hot enough to melt back there and they haven't cracked even with my now 400whp at the track/autocross events.
moving forward on this - for you guys running MR's, is there any pushback because of the MR being charged more? I believe it's for the aluminum roof, bilsteins etc - but the car is still heavier than a GSR, and the bilsteins are often replaced with suspension bits anyway.
Worked on the brake ducting clearance for a guy buying a set in Hong Kong. Sending him uprights and a printed duct for clearance checks with AP 5000r calipers.
More venting could be done on the back side or top, but someone would have to get crafty with the sheet metal.
This one is 2.5" and clears axle boot at 20deg and caliper but couldn't go bigger in that area. Going to 3" would have to happen upstream.
*****in. Maybe I'll be able to afford these next year.
Which do you think is a more prudent setup progression?
Going to your knuckle to maximize grip on current tires, or maximizing grip on the stock knuckle with going to a big tire setup (18x10.5's and 285/30 tires)?
Hard to beat more tire, the question would be is 10% tire more effective than effectively using current tire. That's a hard question I think. Really depends if you have bump steer of braking issues due to 4deg of camber. I might go for tires first for competition and uprights if mostly track days since you should see a bit better edge life and tire is cheaper.
Hard to beat more tire, the question would be is 10% tire more effective than effectively using current tire. That's a hard question I think. Really depends if you have bump steer of braking issues due to 4deg of camber. I might go for tires first for competition and uprights if mostly track days since you should see a bit better edge life and tire is cheaper.
I currently only run -3.3f/-1.5r camber and see fairly even tire wear (NT01's), although both the inside and outside edges wear more than the center of the tire running 38psi hot, especially the fronts. I imagine bump steer is going to be less than ideal since I will be running your Ohlins top hat and the perrin PSRS, I should see a bit over 6* of caster.
I showed your knuckle to a fabricator friend of mine, and he wants to build me a set. While it will be less $ than your billet option, it still won't be cheap.
I would also like to go to 18's to put X front brakes on the car. Ah, the conundrum...lol
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