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so... anyone have any suggestions for a well-fitting aluminum uicp + air intake? STM does NOT fit. the mishimoto piece looks like it'll fit, but not sure what to do about an intake portion with it
I have a samco silicone intake if you want it. It has the correct shape for the MAF and it worked with my ETS short route piping. I'm running an old school STM MAF intake now that has the correct S shape.
I bought this ages ago and it still looks new. Brushed aluminum. Fitment is great. Has a the long recirc hose that puts the BOV right into the intake pipe. Samco silicone intake is nice too.
What's your plan with the battery?
yea that one's stainless steel, it's nice though, i may just go for it. battery is getting relocated to the trunk.
Originally Posted by terror rising
I have a samco silicone intake if you want it. It has the correct shape for the MAF and it worked with my ETS short route piping. I'm running an old school STM MAF intake now that has the correct S shape.
is the old school one steel? im surprised they adjusted the design. silicone apparently can crush in on itself, causing some issues which is why i'm trying to go hard pipe.
ETS seems the best option if I dont care about material for sure..
is the old school one steel? im surprised they adjusted the design. silicone apparently can crush in on itself, causing some issues which is why i'm trying to go hard pipe.
ETS seems the best option if I dont care about material for sure..
Nope, aluminum. I believe they adjusted the design due to the ACD pump. This puts the filter where the FMIC sprayer bottle was which is fine by me since that's just a dual map switch now. The Samco never crushed on me and the only reason I got rid of it was so I could weld a -10 port on it for the STM sealed catch can. The silicone was actually preferable for MAF cars due to being a damper compared to a hard pipe.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
So clean! Looks like a small wire tuck and throttle cable reroute?
Yes sir. Mini tuck, cable reroute, AC delete. Go fast with class!
Nope, aluminum. I believe they adjusted the design due to the ACD pump. This puts the filter where the FMIC sprayer bottle was which is fine by me since that's just a dual map switch now. The Samco never crushed on me and the only reason I got rid of it was so I could weld a -10 port on it for the STM sealed catch can. The silicone was actually preferable for MAF cars due to being a damper compared to a hard pipe.
yeah it's for sure happened on the track.
that is annoying though with the design change though
Got a cheap dogbox... I want to try it out and see if it is for me... just to get it off the bucket list..
Reason for being cheap, I guess, is that no one knows who made it... it has a somewhat specific design as it is not the usual copy of drenth with small dog rings.. uses big wide rings that are engaged by mostly stock forks (only one fork is custom)...
Do you have pictures of the dog rings?
And while we're on the topic of clean engine bays, is anybody interested in a reverse cam sensor housing??
And on another note, I'm putting together a small run of COP ignition kits. If you're interested shoot me a PM. Trying to keep pricing similar to other kits other there with a potential for a DIY kit where I sell you all the components and you just have to make the wiring harness yourself.
yea i mean he tried adjusting various bits but idk how much movement it really needs, esp since the udnertray is mounted to the fmic
yea that one's stainless steel, it's nice though, i may just go for it. battery is getting relocated to the trunk.
is the old school one steel? im surprised they adjusted the design. silicone apparently can crush in on itself, causing some issues which is why i'm trying to go hard pipe.
ETS seems the best option if I dont care about material for sure..
Did you try sending all these pics to STM and giving them a call?
I found the best option to be just cutting the existing line and putting a hose on it with double clamps. I know the pump says it can make some crazy pressure but Ive never logged more than 90psi.
you can get an M14 to AN nipple for the diff head to get rid of the silly banjo bolt and then you can get a braided line the whole way. Thats what we did
you can get an M14 to AN nipple for the diff head to get rid of the silly banjo bolt and then you can get a braided line the whole way. Thats what we did
That side is easy, its the pump side flare thats odd and hard to make new. Thats where I just cut the OEM line about 6" and pushed a hose over it.
That side is easy, its the pump side flare thats odd and hard to make new. Thats where I just cut the OEM line about 6" and pushed a hose over it.
I would bubble flare that hard line, so the hose has a "bump" to go over. Same as an intercooler pipe is bead rolled. I know you haven't had an issue with double clamps, just a suggestion for extra security.
