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With that said, the wheel bearing + hub assembly can sometimes get a tad corroded and not want to separate from the upright easily. Usually I'll use a hammer and a short 2x4 to separate them. The wood keeps anything from getting damaged by the hammer.
With that said, the wheel bearing + hub assembly can sometimes get a tad corroded and not want to separate from the upright easily. Usually I'll use a hammer and a short 2x4 to separate them. The wood keeps anything from getting damaged by the hammer.
Interesting, I havent ever gotten a bearing like that. Ive just gotten the full assembly with the bearing and flange all together. So it was remove and replace.
Interesting, I havent ever gotten a bearing like that. Ive just gotten the full assembly with the bearing and flange all together. So it was remove and replace.
yea that would have been nice. plan atm is to remove assembly bring over to shop, press out old, press in new, then go back, take off ebrake, spindle, then install yours, ebrake, hub assembly, brakes & done (for the rear).
the guy helping has a much better idea of how this stuff works than i do though
Interesting, I havent ever gotten a bearing like that. Ive just gotten the full assembly with the bearing and flange all together. So it was remove and replace.
so with respect to 12, the ebrake, below - once i undo the 4 bolts, i can just set it down on the ground, swap the spindle, and reattach, correct? without worrying about disconnecting 9, which is the parking brake cable connection
in the meantime, i take 11 to a shop to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Couple of upgrades going on in the shed. My first gen garret gt3582r finally gave up after 11 years so have upgraded to a Garrett g35-900, Unfortunately when we tried to tune it yesterday the 45mm wastegate is now too small and cannot keep in control of the boost. So upgrading to a 60mm W/G
On the inside i have fitted up and now wired up my paddles for my paddleshift kit. Just need to mount the compressor, tank and MME motorsport shifting actuator and we will be paddleshifting!
Luckily in my series they take a major hit when switching to even SEQ so it helps keep things in check.
Yep in our class we are racing the likes of factory GT4 cars and Porsche cup cars etc along with purpose built racecars like v8 supertourers (NZ version of a v8 supercar)
Honestly i did it also to save on gearbox maintenance and get a proper consistent throttle blip on downshift too. being an automatic shift almost with a paddleshift you can guarantee a near perfect shift every time as all selecting the paddle does is trigger a sequence of events in the ecu which are customisable. With the lever the strain gauge triggers the ecu sequence which by that point your already in the motion of shifting.
quickie: if i add helper springs without changing preload (ie no preload) on the main or helper springs, do I change the height of the car in that corner? (very slightly lowered, because the overall spring is slightly softer, correct?)
if i do compress the helpers all the way, i raise that corner by about that much right? but i shouldn't do that, helper should just be there to keep the spring in place when unloaded?
a fully compressed helper spring becomes a spacer, adding to the height of your main spring. if mine is 35mm tall (fully compressed) and i just added it, I have to drop 35mm to get back to previous height
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Jan 27, 2022 at 09:16 PM.
