Also, dont disassemble the ebrake. It comes right out with the 4 bearing bolts and 1 upper bolt.

 

ah thats right. 17mm i think for the heatshield. pliers to get some slack from ebrake cable (no need but just saying)

 

Way more than what it'd cost to buy the tools and do it yourself. It's not a complicated job, just need to take your time and get everything torqued.

 

you guys torque stuff? I just use feel/muscle memory of some sort "thats tight for that type of bolt and what it does"

 

would be good if there were a how to vs. do this and don't forget to do that. hopefully my buddy helping me next week will have a good sense of it.

 

Take apart. Reverse. Google torque specs. Easy peasy. Probably how most of us learned.

 

Here's something to give you an idea
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...placement.html

+ you just need to remove 1 bolt for ebrake/heatshield. and disconnect 3 ball joints and the control arm bolt

**the sparks is just if youre reusing your old hub/flange. (no need for a torch)

you can probably Zoom call SSB

 

thanks. i think i've worn out all the capital i had with ssb lmao

we also have a "fork style ball joint separator" but i think we will need to take the hub to a shop with a press to swap out the ball bearings for the rear. front, i have the whole assembly so i can just bolt it to the new spindle

 

you guys know you can download the factory service manual for free right?

https://www.evoscan.com/vehicle-manuals

 

dont use that fork thing. hammer tap works (youtube it) i did it on the track/venue in order to inspect my axle but tool from HF is just so easy and everywhere

 

this looks just like that bit. and for the rear wheel bearings, the guy lives near a shop that has a press, so i think we may be good then

paul/boosted films also did this video for the front spindles:

 

I've seen enough rust and frozen bolts for this month. clean and lubricate every chance you get. paint is not a bad idea

 

yea i think that vid will be solid, on my end for the fronts won't even have to remove wheel bearing from the oem spindle (until later)

circling back to the antiseize thing, a lot of posts are saying to use antiseize, but the ssb website says to use threadlocker. these do opposite things, more or less, so which do i use?

 

anti seize is for mating surfaces. bearing to hub, ball joint 'taper', maybe axle to hub, shaft part of a suspension bolt, anything that might get 'welded'/frozen but rust or pressure
thread locker is for tiny bolts threads that cannot be over torqued enough to stay forever. example is the SSB trailing arm, it has a pretty bolt for the ball joint.

 

Yep, blue loctite on the small bolts or ones you dont intend to take off ever. Like the steering arm up front.

For popping off ball joints, I like the orilies/autozone tool the best, and its free to rent. Its not intended to fully remove things but put load on the taper so you can hit the housing and get it to separate.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...n1/67008?pos=1