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Both Phouvahn and I are missing all 4 of the body screws. I pulled my alt apart and found the coil has a broken wire where it connects to the regulator. Guessing as the housing got loose it was just able to vibrate long enough to eventually snap a wire.
Anyone else care to check if they have all their bolts present?
Both Phouvahn and I are missing all 4 of the body screws. I pulled my alt apart and found the coil has a broken wire where it connects to the regulator. Guessing as the housing got loose it was just able to vibrate long enough to eventually snap a wire.
Anyone else care to check if they have all their bolts present?
ohh I've read about this issue here before. will check mine
Bah, after axle boot leak last event I got that fixed and fired up the car today only to get the charge/brake light staying on. Wonder if the grease from axle worked its way into the alt maybe? Either way, gotta get something in a day or two. I might just pick up whatever local alt is available and rebuild mine or get an outlander to swap in if the part store one sucks.
Never a dull moment!
I have found the AC Delco ones from Rock Auto to be reliable, good quality remans.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
Very weird alternator issue.
Both Phouvahn and I are missing all 4 of the body screws. I pulled my alt apart and found the coil has a broken wire where it connects to the regulator. Guessing as the housing got loose it was just able to vibrate long enough to eventually snap a wire.
Anyone else care to check if they have all their bolts present?
This is a common occurrence with BS deleted built engines and revving at or over 8000. When you get the new alt, take the bolts out one at a time and reinstall with red lcotite.
Theres 3 places Ive run into for leaks. First one you mentioned, only one of the holes can leak but I dont recall which. Its drilled just slightly into an oil passage, internet search will probably tell you which one. Ive had a leak also at the cap for the balance shaft/oil pump gear nut. The o-ring dried out and was hard and brittle. I replaced with a viton o-ring from McMcaster. Now I have enough to last me about 1000 years
Last one was stupid me, I forgot to tighten the oil pump gear nut once I had the timing belt on. Oil leaked right past the nut. Luckily I found that one pretty quick.
Exhaust cam seal was def bad. Could see oil pooling on the bottom side of the seal and backside of the cam gear.
Any chance I can change this seal without special tool MD998713? or without removing cam caps? I should just put cams in this thing and be done with it. Getting antsy now after a few months.
Winter cleaning is well under way for me. I know a few people have asked questions regarding my aero floors and i had them off the car for a clean so snapped some pictures for those who are curious. These connect directly to the front splitter at the front and rear diffuser at the rear with the only cut out areas for the wheel wells and exhaust.
If you look closely you can see the ram air inlet air scoop and "exhaust" side for the transfer case to blow cool air over transfer case to cool it and a titanium heat shield to shield the transfer case from the exhaust heat. behind these scoops is the portion of the floor that covers the driveshaft so only the exhaust is exposed in the tunnel area to keep heat down. At the back of the main floor youll see duct pick ups which attaches to hoses that go to the rear brakes and rear diff for cooling. the holes in the main floor at the front are for the air jacks and the one hole in the back side is for the dry sump tank drain. the side skirts also have ducts to pull air out from the back of the front wheel well.
