It's like you guys are spying on me or something. I may or may not have broken mine, a time or two, taking it off-road.

Man, you ain't lyin'.

 

Either hell is going to freeze over this winter, or it's still going to be 90 in November.

 

Don't say that, I'm looking forward to SC not being hot and humid as **** through winter

 

So one of my rear coilovers is leaking oil. I have a spare set of the rear shock bodies that should be valved/same specs as the current one I have. The piston itself on the replacement is 3/8ths of an inch longer/taller than the one I'm swapping out. So the question is, should I put the perch/locking rings with the springs be at the same exact position on the threaded body or should I move all that up 3/8th of an inch up since the piston itself is 3/8th taller?

 

Wouldn't the spring and perch dictate ride height? The shock is just a dampener for the spring.

 

The threaded bodies are the same length, you should have the same ride height if you put the perches and lower mount at the same location. You'll just have a bit extra droop travel.

 

Ok I put the lower mount in the same position but the top locking perches for the springs higher since if I put that at the regular measurement, the spring was flopping around. So I just have the top perch higher now so there's a little preload on the springs now. Sounds correct? I should have the piston be using 99% /all of its droop right?

 

That's the extra droop. You won't have that when the car is on the ground.
if you raise the perch, the car will be higher in that corner.

 

if the springs flopping about you need a longer spring or a keeper spring.

It would have been best to do a height measure before and after on all 4 corners also.

 

are those FAs? revalve service is not cheap

 

Longer spring doesnt fix anything. Just moves the perch down the same amount as the spring length increase.

 

Yea I just thread the top rings up back to where the springs have 1/8 of preload just like was it previously. So won’t have any flop and doesn’t mess with the ride height. As long as the lowering mount is at the same place as the other then it should be all good I believe in terms of it being at the same ride height as it was previously.?

 

yea, freaking 300 per corner 🥴. Maybe I might try to learn and do it myself. Anyone know the difficulty?

 

just mount it the same way. the difference is going to be internal...one shock piston will be operating 10mm lower than the other

just get a new set eventually. maybe you can get just the shock since you have the other (60mm) hardware

 

Revalving isn't really something people jump into without a lot of knowledge beforehand. Servicing dampers usually requires an array of specialty tools, including a way to accurately measure gas pressure, and you'll still need to pay someone to dyno the dampers after they're rebuilt to verify the rebuild.

$300/corner is pretty normal for revalving stuff, especially if the piston is being changed out. Racing ain't cheap.