Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
FA also closes their shop a couple of months a year. I had to wait a 1.5 months before I sent mine back FYI
some pricing i found (i dont know if pricing is for a whole set when 'per shock' is not specified)
https://shaftworksusa.com/collections/service
not an expert in this area. just sharing (might not be the best) info
some pricing i found (i dont know if pricing is for a whole set when 'per shock' is not specified)
https://shaftworksusa.com/collections/service
not an expert in this area. just sharing (might not be the best) info
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Aug 10, 2022 at 09:08 AM.
FA also closes their shop a couple of months a year. I had to wait a 1.5 months before I sent mine back FYI
some pricing i found (i dont know if pricing is for a whole set when 'per shock' is not specified)
https://shaftworksusa.com/collections/service
not an expert in this area. just sharing (might not be the best) info
some pricing i found (i dont know if pricing is for a whole set when 'per shock' is not specified)
https://shaftworksusa.com/collections/service
not an expert in this area. just sharing (might not be the best) info
$150 per shock looks like a starting price...that usually adds up to around $300 which is what I used to pay before...
I am wondering why so many of the 2-way adjustable shocks/struts always have high speed compression as one of the adjustment. Back in days when I used 3-way ones, high speed compression was adjusted at the beginning and probably never touched again. Low speed one was used much more. Yet, all you can buy nowadays have the high speed there. No clue why that is...
He's building me a set. I can't even get a " good morning " back from a local "national champion autox suspension expert guy", so, so far so good working with Shaftworks.
People, especially "enthusiasts" normally want the not-basemodel, so they offer that and the basemodel
I am wondering why so many of the 2-way adjustable shocks/struts always have high speed compression as one of the adjustment. Back in days when I used 3-way ones, high speed compression was adjusted at the beginning and probably never touched again. Low speed one was used much more. Yet, all you can buy nowadays have the high speed there. No clue why that is...
Installed the one corner coilover and right away just by sitting in the car it felt off. Driving it felt off. Re thought about what I did and came to the conclusion I needed to lower the damper assembly into the mount instead of keeping it at the same measurement at the previous(so pretty much lower the ride height). Sits and feels a lot more normal now.
I plan on getting an alignment done since I haven't done one in at least 3 years. Getting a little more than 1/8inch toe in on the fronts and a 1/4 toe in on the rear.
Currently I'm running -3.9 front and -1.4 in the rear. I'm thinking going around -4.5 in the fronts and adding more in the rear, not sure though. The rears currently in certain scenarios is my weak link IMO. I feel like my fronts can handle transitions really well but the rear cannot follow suite sometimes. In terms of rotation, it mostly feels pretty "solid".
So my concern is about adding more rear camber and if the pros would outweigh the cons? A con i mostly worry about is rotation. Also how much I maybe should add. Maybe go from -1.4 to -2 or even as high as -2.5?
Currently on
FA510's 10k fronts and 12.5k rears.
stock front sway bar with that adjustable bracket and whiteline rear bar on the lowest setting
Caster front bushings and that camber top hat dallas makes.
I plan on getting an alignment done since I haven't done one in at least 3 years. Getting a little more than 1/8inch toe in on the fronts and a 1/4 toe in on the rear.
Currently I'm running -3.9 front and -1.4 in the rear. I'm thinking going around -4.5 in the fronts and adding more in the rear, not sure though. The rears currently in certain scenarios is my weak link IMO. I feel like my fronts can handle transitions really well but the rear cannot follow suite sometimes. In terms of rotation, it mostly feels pretty "solid".
So my concern is about adding more rear camber and if the pros would outweigh the cons? A con i mostly worry about is rotation. Also how much I maybe should add. Maybe go from -1.4 to -2 or even as high as -2.5?
Currently on
FA510's 10k fronts and 12.5k rears.
stock front sway bar with that adjustable bracket and whiteline rear bar on the lowest setting
Caster front bushings and that camber top hat dallas makes.
Last edited by CaptainSquirts; Aug 11, 2022 at 12:44 PM.
95% autocross. I've already tried higher pressures and stiffer bar, opposite on what I was looking for. Lower pressure and bar set softer feels way better, way less snappy.
Side note, the old 285 and 295 A7 setups I tested liked 38f/40-44r. I tried 2psi increments up and down a few steps and that was the happy place for them. I did a similar test this weekend but with the 315s, and 35psi square seemed to be magical. Just dropping from 38/38 to 35/35 wife and I both dropped 8/10s on the following run (60sec course). Havent tried concrete yet, but at Nats if the back is too planted I'll bump the rear 2-4psi.
Def can believe dropping .8 from dropping the pressures. The other week went to a test and tune event where it was only 5 of us. The person running the event was testing re-71rs tires and he had it 4 psi higher than his norm. After dropping them by 4 psi, he dropped almost a second.











