first thing, You should learn to do your alignments at home via strings it is far more accurate those laser machines are often not very accurate. Theres a reason professional motorsport teams use string line setups and set up hubs. For camber you can buy a builders square to measure cambers using Pythagoras. at 57cm high 1cm = 1 degree. this height works out pretty close to the height of your wheel and tyre

Why do you not have any Toe out on the front? Im not familiar with auto X setups so not sure if this is normal or not but for circuit you definitely want 1 - 2 mm toe out each side on the front. I run a little bit of toe in on the rear but a trick i used to use is 1mm toe out on the rear also really helps on throttle rotation.

The limiting factor in the rear for camber is the toe as you can only go so far on the camber and toe before they max out unless you have aftermarket toe arms.

 

no need for math


https://www.harborfreight.com/digita...&cid=go_social

 

Where are you sticking that thing while the wheels are on the car? Or are you using hub stands?

 

I have this random bar that fit exactly from top to bottom lip of the 18" wheel. its actually a bar I got from replacing the garage door opener.
you can also make one from shelving hardware

 

yea thats another option haha. the price of those sort of devices and their accuracy has dropped heaps

 

Well the season with the Evo is over now. I gotta figure out how crazy I want to go over the off-season with it but first things first, I need a new diff.

I broke an axle at the Packwood ProSolo and I think that shock damaged the pinion in the rear diff. I ran fine for another 15 runs a couple weeks later at a local Packwood event but had a very faint strange noise. That noise on the Nats practice course just got worse and worse so I basically said I'm going to break it or send it. So I broke it.

Cant thank Marshal enough for the loaner diff, not sure what I would have run if I didnt get that option. Also Bailey for coming over to hang out and help swap things.

 

congrats on your win.
I'm kinda glad you also think the damages are related. I went thru this whole thing plus exploded clutch and broken center diff and other bad luck that comes with fixing them

 

No worries. Gotta keep a positive karma balance, you never know when you need to make a withdrawal. I'm glad you were able to pay it forward and get John V in your car for a run. That was fun to watch!

 

Ya'll see the latest Grand Tour episode, I won't spoil it but I almost cried a few times lol.

 

When you pay for 6 runs you should get 6 runs! It was super awesome and Im glad he took me up on the offer. I think it gave him a motivation bump when he was ready to light it on fire.

Havent seen it yet, I'll have to put it on tonight.

 

Anyone been looking at coilovers/parts from international manufacturers from international suppliers due to the historically strong dollar?

IE: The KW V4 coilovers you can get for ~$4500 w/ shipping internationally where their USD price is ~$5700.
Currently ordering a do-luck widebody kit from rhdjapan.

Domestic distributors are not lowering their prices with relation to their material prices which is normal. But this is an "arbitrage" opportunity, especially with high dollar, small pieces.

 

Not a bad idea. Wish my wallet wasn't in recovery from the racing season

 

Ive had luck with this buying Diffs from RZCrew out of singapore. The Cusco diffs were quite a bit cheaper even with shipping there.

 

How do i say i hate you in new zealand haha.

We are getting smashed by the high USD.

 

What are you trying to buy that is USD?