Bar and plate works great for the drag racers. Mostly as a heat sink for <12 seconds. But road racing depending on how long the sessions are I'd also go with tube and fin. Although there are lots of successful road racers with bar and plate ICs too. Plazmamann makes a nice giant tube/fin setup.

 

I recently replaced the stock 8 fmic with an older ETS 3" and its heavy as hell.

Greddy always made some quality parts. Currently hounding some guy on fb marketplace from CA to ship one of their offroad downpipes. I never understood car ppl that like are ascared of shipping larger parts.

 

I bought a Blitz FMIC a few years back. I took a TON of crap for it because "bar and plate is superior" blah blah. Every bit of research (I won't rehash the details) I found said tube and fin was better for what I was going to be doing (road racing, 430whp). I've noticed others doing the same, so it looks like the info is getting out there. Not only is the Blitz much, much lighter than my old AMS FMIC, but it works GREAT. I'd recommend sticking with what you have. It's probably perfect for what you are doing.

 

ok - i'm just making sure i do any due diligence on my end to keep the car cool. aside from this, there's really not much to be done iit seems like?

 

I don't think either one is better or worse in all situations. For the street or drag I bet a bar and plate overall works better. It's a giant heat sink that draws heat and eventually sheds it with airflow. But most people are talking trackdays and road racing in this thread so tube and fin should work better for those longer sessions. Better at rejecting heat more efficiently.

 

Yep. that's why I specified my use, which I believe is kyoo's intended purpose also.

 

I wish there was a 4” tube/fin for the 8/9. Anyone know a good source for a core? I think I know a place that could fab the end tanks locally.

Speaking of temps, I just did my initial teat drive around the neighborhood in my G25-660 setup. I still have work to do on WG water cooling, new BOV and boost control, but initial street driving shows that I have a huge increase in underhood temps. I also see the coolant temps running warmer in low speed driving. When I open the hood after a drive, the post IC pipes are hot to the touch. I see coating and a lot more heat shielding in my future before venturing onto a track with this setup (plus tuning of course). My old setup was completely Swain coated, plus a stock heat shield on top of that. This turbo makes a really cool noise. It’s fun to hear it free wheel after shutdown as well — my first BB turbo .

The .8 bar wastegate springs seem okay. I’m hitting 15 psi through a cat and a stock muffler at WG pressure. In track mode with a test pipe and full 3” exhaust, that will go up a couple psi at least.

 

Tis one of the reasons I went with Ti IC piping, not for it's boi looks but for it's ability to reject underhood temps. This last round (also my first on a morrison setup) I noticed on the dyno that the intake temp even with the Voltex hood had increased considerably to the point of having to tune around it. I tried ordering a seibon headlight duct but they're N/A at the moment so I'll likely drill holes in the fiberglass one. But same, boxing the intake and the rad's are now a thing.....sigh. Fix one problem 10 more pop up because race car lol.

If you get an IR gun on the runners after it's been running a few minutes, I'll do the same with mine with the JetHot coating and we'll see the difference.

 

yea time attack/track/hpde.

it's disconcerting how much heat our cars generate. it may have had some impact overall to what happened, i just want to do what i can to prevent it

 

Our cars actually handle heat quite well compared to many other platforms. There's tons of other platforms that require cooling mods just to run at factory power level on track.

These cars are an amazing balance between simplicity and performance compared to just about anything else made in the past 2 decades.

 

Can confirm. I made 470whp on E85 out of a 71HTA sized 20G on E85 w/a built 2.0 on 31psi using the same Blitz FMIC (Mustang Dyno; RRT Tuned). Paid $430 from rhdjapan and all my friends shat on it for not being a heavy bar and plate IC from ETS...saying I would have been better off sticking to stock. My IATs are almost always 50-60F colder than ambient especially once the car is moving. Tube and fins do a great job at shedding heat....once you get air moving through them they're good. Just don't use the silicone couplers and clamps they give you they kinda suck (single wall + worm clamps).

EBay/Amazon has a decent $100 3" tube/fin IC you could experiment with. Just make some brackets out of bar stock.


Looks a lot like this which had good reviews

 

Love my blitz as well. Tyler's 52mm you speak of was ...ok. I wouldn't go as far as saying "71hta sized" though because it uses a 54mm turbine vs a 49 or something on the 71's. 71 spool was 20psi by 3100rpm vs 3900 rpm on the 20g. Quite the difference on track. But it looks like your spool is even later then that?

 

Can't recommend Inconel heat shielding more. It's pricey but it's worth every penny for heat management. In the grand scheme of things we pay money for on our cars, it's actually not that expensive.

It made a HUGE difference in my under hood temps. I can basically stick my hand between the turbo and the fire wall when I pit after hot lapping without burning my skin. It's actually quite remarkable.

 

My only issue with Inco is it "hides" everything, making it nay impossible to spot an issue or looks for cracks and such. Or is it serviceable?

 

Sometimes its better not knowing