I'm assuming the solenoid is bypassed and now you are running a pressure signal directly to the FPR. The Evo X there is no silly solenoid so it's a direct pressure source to FPR connection.

Make sure the hoses are securely zip tied!

Evo X is like this:

 

I don't know what mitsu bean counters were smoking, but some of those barbs don't even have nipples, let alone clamps on the hose. Zip Tie all the things!

Here are those settings I was talking about. They will be different based on your setup/preferences so nobody copy/paste

 

So, on the 8s and 9s, people are bypassing the solenoid and compensating in the tune to deliver a longer start up pulsewidth? I've never heard of that. I have heard of the vacuum line sliding off the FPR. That happened to tons of people when these cars came out because it was common to tee into that line when installing a boost gauge, and a lot of people just reinstalled a random vacuum hose without a zip tie. I've always been meticulous about the secureness of the connection to the FPR, but didn't even think about the other end of it.

 

yea i'll ask RS about it but i think that's what i had with the tune, that it cut boost and timing so much - but i assume it was probably not enough to save it

 

Worth a followup convo. The way I setup mine was to flash the cel longer for a wideband event so I can easily tell the difference between a high knock and a high AFR by how long the cel flashes. They behave differently, knock pulling timing and AFR out of range pulling boost. Enough knock will probably throw down your octane number and pull boost too, but if your WG spring is high enough or you aren't full boosting you might not even notice the boost cut so having the cel behave differently is helpful.

 

My car has had the FPR reference line ran directly to the manifold since I bought it and have never had an issue. Delete the solenoid.

FTFY. I know tons of people that run aftermarket ECUs on street cars. And if you get a PNP one it's an easy switch to go back for emission/inspection stuff.

Basically what's cheaper for you, a standalone or a new engine? I'm not saying you can't get by on a stock ECU, of course you can, tons of people do. But how much is the peace of mind worth to you?

 

would have been nice if i knew that was a thing that could fail and should be bypassed. the result was extremely, extremely expensive.

im depressed

 

California is just a harbinger of things to come. AFAIK most states have emissions testing of some kind. The pressure against everything ICE is only going to increase as EV becomes the norm and pollution gets worse. The EPA is getting more aggressive by the month. Don't get me wrong, I love to tinker with stuff. Installing and learning an aftermarket platform would be hundreds, thousands of hours of entertainment for me. I'm just in it for the long haul and I see where things are / are going. As far as swapping, yes that is possible, didn't say it wasn't. What I said was if you want advanced features, like individual cylinder anything, AFAIK you need to modify the engine (crank trigger) to get those features. That pretty much throws hot swapping ECU's out the window.

Not to get into the weeds, but my reasons for owning an evo are my reasons. I can't speak to the cost benefit analysis of a standalone to someone who has different reasons. If I start going down that rabbit hole of "track car" and adding up the $$$$ it starts to make a lot more sense to buy something more modern for the track. If I was going to build a track car though, I think where the engine is concerned I would start shoveling money into a drysump before a stand alone. Just my opinions of course.

 

so - what can i do with a block that's been scored up like that - is it worth anything?

 

Depends on how deep the scoring is.

 

Rotating assembly position is determined by the cam position sensor in most cases. Plenty of standalones work with the stock trigger wheels. Individual cylinder trimming is a tuning bandaid and very rarely used unless you've got tons of time and are looking to get every ounce. Those people usually own their own dynos.


A scored cylinder isn't a huge deal. Damaged mains is a bigger issue honestly. Have Ron check it with a bore gauge, usually a standard .020" bore and hone cleans damage like that up.

 

he hasn't had a chance to take it apart all the way, he's just gonna buy it for 500 bucks lol. The all-in for everything, including the shortblock and various new parts was nearly 9 grand.

had to get it on the dyno cuz the fueling was a little off with the new motor, gonna spend the week continuing to break it in lightly until Autobahn this weekend.

ps: making 360whp on RS' dyno, which is about where it should be.

 

In the grand scheme thats not too terrible for drop off and just be done with it. My last motor splosion cost about 5500 for the motor build (and I got the block for effectively $50) and had to do a basic trans rebuild for $1500. And it took a few months to get back on the road.

 

The stock 8/9 ECU is just slow. The X logs way ****ing faster. Nothing to do with the open port.

Individual cylinder trims for fuel/timing is 100% not a bandaid. Unless you're referring it to being a bandaid for parts that don't flow to/from each cylinder evenly. But even the, unless you have ITB's. and CNC port a head that has zero core shift, and then have a perfectly tuned exhaust manifold/header, there is always going to be some cylinder imbalance that can be tuned out.

FWIW, English Racing has found 10-20whp on 400-500whp EvoX's by utilizing the per cylinder fuel adjustments that the stock X ECU offers.

 

There is definitely an effect from Openport, logging exactly 8hz means its being limited to that. Not that it would do a whole lot more uncorked but still more than 8hz. I'd dig into it more but as soon as the next couple events are done we're doing a full ECU and fuel system over haul.