Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
ah.. well, car is going to Ronnie at RS motors tomorrow in MN. He's got various parts on hand and an OEM block just in case, quicker and easier to get my car to him than parts as needed.
Then you have water lines for the MVS's - do you just daisy chain them all together or T them into the turbo outlet...
I tend to overthink these things, so maybe my thinking is off, but this is where I come out after talking to Tial tech support and reading everything I can about turbo cooling. I still need to print out a protractor so I can get that 20 degree angle on the CHRA for the siphoning effect.
If only our cars had electric water pumps to cool the turbo after shutdown like my Audi...
MVR Wastegate spring question -- I put the 1 bar spring combo in one of the 44mm Tial MVR wategates and on a bench test the valve barely cracks open at about 23 psi (fully open at at about 28 psi). I found an old post on EvoM with Tial saying this is normal and explained by the lack of exhaust pressure on the valve, but I'm really skeptical and suspect this is going to result in wastegate pressure being over 20 psi, when I want it to be more like 14.5 psi (at least for starters). Since it's a pain to change springs once everything is installed, I'm hoping to get this right on the first try, or at least underboost rather than over. Any suggestions?
EDIT: Just saw this on Turbosmarts’s site: Although you can perform a “bench test” of a wastegate to confirm that it is cycling properly and not seized, this bench test will not offer accurate results in regards to the amount of air required to open the wastegate. It is important to keep in mind during this test that when the wastegate is actually run on the vehicle, there will be additional exhaust backpressure helping to force the wastegate open. Because of this, a 14 PSI wastegate may require 20+ PSI or air pressure to open during a bench test. The best way to confirm the proper operation of a wastegate is to run it on a vehicle.
6/13 EDIT : I reduced the spring pressure by 20% so it cracks at 16-17 psi and opens significantly at 20 psi. Hopefully, that works out okay.
EDIT: Just saw this on Turbosmarts’s site: Although you can perform a “bench test” of a wastegate to confirm that it is cycling properly and not seized, this bench test will not offer accurate results in regards to the amount of air required to open the wastegate. It is important to keep in mind during this test that when the wastegate is actually run on the vehicle, there will be additional exhaust backpressure helping to force the wastegate open. Because of this, a 14 PSI wastegate may require 20+ PSI or air pressure to open during a bench test. The best way to confirm the proper operation of a wastegate is to run it on a vehicle.
6/13 EDIT : I reduced the spring pressure by 20% so it cracks at 16-17 psi and opens significantly at 20 psi. Hopefully, that works out okay.
Last edited by EVO8LTW; Jun 13, 2021 at 03:22 PM.
19 hours later, car has been dropped at ronnie's. lol
another video of it, it's a little more pronounced here i think.
fingers crossed they figure it out soon. would love to make autobahn in 2 weeks.
another video of it, it's a little more pronounced here i think.
fingers crossed they figure it out soon. would love to make autobahn in 2 weeks.
19 hours later, car has been dropped at ronnie's. lol
another video of it, it's a little more pronounced here i think.
https://youtu.be/K8S-w917Pkg
fingers crossed they figure it out soon. would love to make autobahn in 2 weeks.
another video of it, it's a little more pronounced here i think.
https://youtu.be/K8S-w917Pkg
fingers crossed they figure it out soon. would love to make autobahn in 2 weeks.
six v-bands? good luck with that after real heat cycles. I have four and it's a royal pain in the ***. Ironically V-bands are supposed to make things easier, in reality, not at all. At least in my experience.
i think dual wastegates recirculated is inherently cumbersome. I originally was going to get two O2 housings and have a non-recirc setup as well with the same manifold and downpipe. I decided not to do it for now, but if this setup is a headache I might go that way later to simplify. An IWG G-series would be a ton easier but less versatile down the road. Also, I could see sizing up on the turbo if I eventually have a stroker and wanting the EWG provisions. I’m as much of a tinkerer as a driver, so this setup is good for now.












