Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
Here's a dumb question - why couldn't we do this 2g style and flip the turbo Around so that the intake faces left and the o2 housing faces right? There's no AC/Drysump pump in that scenario and you simply have to go around the starter then.
MVR Wastegate spring question -- I put the 1 bar spring combo in one of the 44mm Tial MVR wategates and on a bench test the valve barely cracks open at about 23 psi (fully open at at about 28 psi). I found an old post on EvoM with Tial saying this is normal and explained by the lack of exhaust pressure on the valve, but I'm really skeptical and suspect this is going to result in wastegate pressure being over 20 psi, when I want it to be more like 14.5 psi (at least for starters). Since it's a pain to change springs once everything is installed, I'm hoping to get this right on the first try, or at least underboost rather than over. Any suggestions?
EDIT: Just saw this on Turbosmarts’s site: Although you can perform a “bench test” of a wastegate to confirm that it is cycling properly and not seized, this bench test will not offer accurate results in regards to the amount of air required to open the wastegate. It is important to keep in mind during this test that when the wastegate is actually run on the vehicle, there will be additional exhaust backpressure helping to force the wastegate open. Because of this, a 14 PSI wastegate may require 20+ PSI or air pressure to open during a bench test. The best way to confirm the proper operation of a wastegate is to run it on a vehicle.
6/13 EDIT : I reduced the spring pressure by 20% so it cracks at 16-17 psi and opens significantly at 20 psi. Hopefully, that works out okay.
EDIT: Just saw this on Turbosmarts’s site: Although you can perform a “bench test” of a wastegate to confirm that it is cycling properly and not seized, this bench test will not offer accurate results in regards to the amount of air required to open the wastegate. It is important to keep in mind during this test that when the wastegate is actually run on the vehicle, there will be additional exhaust backpressure helping to force the wastegate open. Because of this, a 14 PSI wastegate may require 20+ PSI or air pressure to open during a bench test. The best way to confirm the proper operation of a wastegate is to run it on a vehicle.
6/13 EDIT : I reduced the spring pressure by 20% so it cracks at 16-17 psi and opens significantly at 20 psi. Hopefully, that works out okay.
Because then the intake tube would have to go through the P/S pump.
You'd have to move the power steering reservoir and the coolant overflow to fit the air filter. The exhaust would end up awkward still too and would require a pretty tight radius bend. Stuff like this is why I'm happy to stick with the stock frame stuff, keeps life simple.
EvoM Guru
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,411
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From: New Zealand
i used to have my gate water cooled but found it a pain in the *** and a point of failure so removed the water lines and havnt looked back. ive never had an issue on track with the wastegate getting too hot.
Dang evos...lol. They also make the MVS's with the heat sink built-in but the neck on those would be into the P/S pump on your setup. To clarify did you do dual 44's or dual 38's?
You'd have to move the power steering reservoir and the coolant overflow to fit the air filter. The exhaust would end up awkward still too and would require a pretty tight radius bend. Stuff like this is why I'm happy to stick with the stock frame stuff, keeps life simple.
But yes in that case - I'd run the throttle body fittings and daisy chain them back to the throttle body return. But since you don't ...really...know that you need them yet, I'd try without and focus on those steps first.
I’m not going to worry about the water lines for now. I’m sure it’s okay for initial wastegate spring testing and initial tuning. I do plan to add it because the gate on the right side is so close to the header tubes. The motorsport MVS with the extra heat sink doesn’t fit as you said. I asked Morrison about that gate. They got one on loan from Tial for me, but weren’t able to make it work without compromising the wastegate inlet angle on the passenger side. I do have twin MVRs, not MVSs — Morrison’s recommendation based on my desire to be able to really turn down the boost.
When you ask yourself the question:
If a shop developed a kit like that then how many units could they produce and sell?
Wastegates only need water cooling if they're stuff in an area surrounded by exhaust heat and have little airflow going over them. The left gate may need it. A good indicator if water cooling is needed is if the anodizing on the top of the wastegate starts to fade fast.
But not so sure now, especially since I prefer IWG.
Looking through some of the finer details of putting together my next engine and where I want bearing clearances to be. Trying to determine if I want to move from Amsoil Dominator 15w50 to Dominator 10w30. The 15w50 is some pretty thick stuff and I'm concerned some of the bearing wear I saw on my last tear down a couple years ago was from insufficient flow on cold starts.
Eh, the DOM 15 feels a bit thin for a 50 weight category oil to begin with which I liked due to the reasons you stated, it's not like honey you get on vr1 or the like. In motorsport conditions I'd rather a 50 back down to a 40 then a 30 back down to a 20 when the heat comes in. Even though I am running a oem block.
