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moved on to the brakes. the ap racing brackets do not fit the 1.25s either. the mounting bracket makes contact with the shape of the up right. grinding down the bracket. thank god someone is helping me
called it a night so tomorrow will be day 3. the fronts are fully in, rears out but new stuff not in & assembled yet, and brakes need to be done. the length of the toe bit for the steering link is much longer so we'll use toe plates to align the car after that.
so, for this kit i am removing both the heat shield and the binary eng brake ducting that were both formerly on the car. should i be concerned at all about the heat? I can wrap the lower control arm bushing in some heat protective tape. i still have the MR brake air guides on the car.
weight for the paddleshift components? Probably around 10kg give or take. But then you can ditch the lever and assembly so that would save up to 5kg.
you can also run it off a paintball gun tank instead if you were doing short ish races and then your looking at being maybe 3 - 5kg worth of components
moved on to the brakes. the ap racing brackets do not fit the 1.25s either. the mounting bracket makes contact with the shape of the up right. grinding down the bracket. thank god someone is helping me
my brackets also hit right there. Dallas is your hub beefier maybe than the factory ones? Either way it wasnt an issue just a bit of a tickle up with the dremel sorted it
If you have booted balljoints like factory or Whiteline you will want a shield for them or you will risk melting the boot. I've not had issues with melting ABS sensors but adding a wire sleeve shield wouldn't hurt.
getting the rear ball joints off but the bushing pretty much gets blown apart even with that tool i got from Amazon. is there a way to refill grease in those bushings?
also, any tips on how to find cheaper abs sensors...