camber and toe locks in place. what's left is:

- UICP, and LICP if there's time
- Turbo inlet tube
- Strut tower brace (5.4lbs, apparently stock is only 8lbs anyway...)
- Remove cross brace by the downpipe (unless anyone thinks it does anything)
- RS Trunk Brace
- Battery fuse
- Re-grease the rear bushings/ball joints
- Temp tape on bushings & abs sensors
- Install upright > e-brake > hub > reassemble brakes
- Make sure everything is torqued down
- Bleed brakes
- Align toe

 

I have fender braces but nothing on the bottom nor strut Tower brace. Never noticed a change.

 

bottom as in any of those cross-braces?

 

Yes. The braces on the bottom.

Not saying any of those items are useless, just that I didn't notice any difference. I was told the fender braces do the same as the strut brace, so opted for those so my engine bay was easier to access. That brace always seems to be in my way.

 

I removed mine. I got tired of them.

 

Hard to see, but here's my mini heatshield

 

is it bolted between the brembo and the spindle? that doesn't mess with the caliper's alignemnt?

 

Good question! Struggling w/how that is mounted!

 

you people and your alignments. I cant even finish a set of pads
Yes sure

 

You will get some weird pad wear if you are adding a spacer to only one side of the caliper like that. At least add a washer of the same thickness to the top caliper bolt.

 

it circles around to the balljoint nut

 

of course it has the same one up there I have a rotor-vent-shroud experiment that mounts to the upper bolt

 

Ahh, your all good then :P

 

Oh, i see, that makes more sense.

But pushing the caliper approx .050 or more further outboard. I guess the caliper pistons will take that into account.

 

They'll sort it out