aftermarket/coilovers tend to be shorter and not all cars are lowered or cant be lowered for various reasons. personally I dont like softer spring you need to preload a bunch to get some droop travel. thats not kind to the coil over threads and your palm

 

arent you using a jack to lift the control arm a bit? you dont want that going too low where it max's out the top ball joint.
i always have to unbolt the control arm to remove/install the rear coilovers

 

im pushing it down to get the strut in and out

 

I guess I'm confused what going on pic would be nice. the only time I would max'd out the spring perch is when trying to put tire under it.
what happened to the helper spring? for me thats a 35mm-80mm spacer

 

Sounds like you need to fit a shorter spring if you cant get the right height you want with the one fitted. keeper springs will fully depress as soon as the car sits on them so they dont do alot really apart from keep the spring captive.

 

That only holds true if you have a spring soft enough it has preload. Even at the moderate range of rates evos need theirs very little static compression (the spring compression seen just under normal stationary weight). And droop beyond spring fully unloaded is 100% pointless in terms of handling. And running a high preload tender to try and push the wheel further only serves to reduce roll rate.

The math doesn't work out and empirically several of use have tested both ways multiple times hunting for any clues to a better option.

 

while it may be fair that droop travel is not all that important, i lost a ton with these uprights installed.

it is, pick up the inner wheel as soon as you turn, level of droop travel.

is this intentional/part of the design? picture below of the rear wheel off the ground.

 

2" to fender at full droop is a ton of droop. What gap to fender are you trying to run? Even a 12k spring, static compression is in the 1.5-1.6" range so youd be left with .4-.5" to fender assuming you can tuck the tire (which you should be able to) is great. FWIW, on stock fenders I could tuck a 295.

But you can always flip the arm to change the range of travel by about .75" at the tire.

 

this is set at about 1" between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender in the rear, so it's only drooped 1". not looking to tuck the tire, I'm running street friendly heights in front and rear. what other options would i have to increase the travel by ~1"? aside from a softer spring? more preload on the spring? I'm on a 13k spring at the moment.

if i run a 9" spring and preload an inch of it, is that essentially the same setup i have with a 8" spring with zero preload?

also, it might help to start from an extreme case and elaborate from there. ire, why have any droop travel at all? keeping in mind these are limited aero street cars.

 

lower collar (height) adjustment is the one that changes the overall length of the coilover.
have you looked to see is FA threaded tube fits Ohlins?
these ssb uprights are for *extremely lowered* cars i believe

 

Are you not understanding what I mean when I say flip the lower control arm? That will give you .75" more droop.

Spring length has no effect on travels, so if you preload a 9" spring you just need that X force before you get any travel. Evo rates do not lend themselves to preloading unless necessary for fixed length shocks. Youd just change spring length for perch location and travels.

 

Not necessarily for the 1.25 f/r. The 2.0 does require more lowering but thats more an effect on roll axis. You typically want to under correct than over correct up front.

The rear can be a challenge just from the travel stand point because by the nature of the the lower control arm being on the main member thats being altered, you change the shock stroke 0.9". The easy fix for Evos is to flip the lower control arm and ark up instead of ark down. It just needs to use a urethane bushing at the shock to keep the arm clocked and keeping the stock spherical ends.

 

i think so, theoretically at least. would i also need to then re-thread the suspension back up (threaded it out about an inch)

 

That just depends on what it lands you in travel range. I would still just set the main spring to exactly 0 preload and set ride with the body length after flipping the arms.

 

ok. i'm just literally unhooking it, flipping it upside-down, and reconnecting it with all heights adjusted, correct? and i think you mentioned, this is fine with no issues in terms of geometry, handling, wear, etc. and camber?