Yep, thats fairly accurate. He brought up roll couple too, which also can play games as well since front RC is likely higher than rear RC. At the end of the day, balance the car with springs in the rear till its too much. Then back off, and used stuff like rear camber or ride height as a trim device. In my case of using extra high rear rates, it works for me but I also know that on track I have to take it easy at speed till the rear tires warm up. Carl found that out on accident but luckily only soiled his pants

Nice! On the brakes, probably just a matter of needing bedding and likely a couple flushes to get all the bubbles out of the new calipers.

 

Dang it Dallas that was our little secret lol


Yeah it’s weird having the rear tires actually do something other than keep the rear bumper from dragging on the ground! And getting a nice feathering across the rear tires is a nice change.

 

I've seen this mentioned a couple times. Is this for autocross specifically or does it apply to road racing too? Kind of worried to try something like this going into high speed sweepers and hitting a bump.

 

When you start asking your rear tires to actually do work, then they actually need to be able to work. That doesnt work when the fronts heat up and the rears are still cold. Track or AutoX, same situation. My car will push till the fronts come to temp than oversteer while the rear comes up then be epic. In AutoX, you just drive it 110% because you want to build the heat within that first run. On track, you just keep calm a couple laps bringing the temps up. Hill climb you'd go for a different approach if you cant warm the tires ahead of time.

 

once the tires are warm it’s not a big deal. When I spun it was the first time driving that particular car (ever) going into the first turn and a rusty driver.

after the tires got heat into them and I got familiar with the car I was hitting the esses on the rumble strips and the car was unbelievably composed.

 

My experience with cheap ABS sensors wasn't issues with the sensors themselves, but the wire shielding not holding up to the heat and getting melty. Just an FYI. That was up front though so you might be fine in back, but I'd keep an eye on them.

 

ah ok thx. i covered the fronts (still oems) in temp tape, but i didn't think to do that in the rear. will cover them as well

 

if you have a TRE inspection cover and are removing it, you might need a back up #143 o-ring. I'm trying to source some now

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/1173N438/

https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/dash-number~143/

 

ordered from O'Reilly. also trying these out since i plan to inspect frequently

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263805589797

 

You probably dont have the right brake pads in if the pedal is hard but its not actually stopping. Probably a race orentated pad that needs to be warmed up to be efficient.

On the alignment you probably need to string line the car and then check what youve done regarding the alignment. Make a square box out of the strings and make sure its parallel etc then measure ur toes.


I found when installing Dallas front hubs the cars physical height dropped dramatically but the car is easier to load onto the trailer and doesnt bottom out as much as it used to so while it looks lower the actual platform of the car appears to have raised which i assume is the intent of the hubs + probably a bit of additional caster pushing the front wheels forward a little bit helping with the going on trailer scenario.

I noticed during racing last week that i had heaps of exit drive and the car was hooking up awesome once you rotated and got on the power but i had real bad initial understeer so need to play with the balance to try get more turn in

 

re: the pads, yea, it does need to be bed but when i've bedded st43's in the past, til the rotor was glowing, i didn't notice much increase in cold bite afterwards. These are DS3.12's.

Alignment will be handled by a professional, likewise with a corner balance since i've had a lot of weight change on the car recently.

I'm surprised your front height changed - mine did not, only the rears did. Also surprised you experience understeer, I've only heard that this changes turn-in significantly, which, again I have not yet pushed the car to know.

 

Yea i think i need to adjust my bar balance to sort out the understeer. out of the corner its a rocket. just into the corner it was lacking. Was too busy fighting fires to play with setup. i put the platform back to the height where it was before i did the hubs but the bodywork seems alot lower.


As for the pads its not bedding its because the pads youve got are designed to work at higher temps and be stable at higher temps. https://pages.ferodoracing.com/produ...e-pads/ds3-12/

The ST43 are designed to work immediately from cold https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos-racing-performance/technical-information.html

The Ferodos arent even at .5mu before 150c (300f) and are only just getting into their working range which looks like its about 400c(750F) onwards. When u compare to the ST43 they are up in their working range by 200F and they lose a little bit of performance from 300F onwards.

Looking at that chart i would imagine you would glaze the ferodo's up pretty quick road driving especially highway driving or light brake applications. u probably want to get a road focused set of pads for on the street and keep the ferodos for when you go track

 

Front uprights shouldnt have any effect on ride height, or should I say geometrically it wouldnt. The mount point to center line of the hub stays OEM. The rear must change to effect geometry though.

 

it must be the added caster then