I like to think of the intake box/maf/intake pipe as a tuned instrument. If you change something, it will need to be retuned. It's not hard to do, just a lot of logging and patience.

 

Stock MAF is sensitive to vibrations as well? I've read that on here somewhere. I had a JMF metal intake pipe with the same symptoms.

 

hmmmm - what i am gonna do then is just do the UICP for now.

 

Idk why you all aren't speed density. No reason not to be.

 

bigger cone filter

 

re: maf - i am keeping due to potential emissions reasons in potential states i may live in the future.

sorry to keep going back to this: if i preload to fully compress the rear helper springs when unloaded, then I will not run into a situation re: weird things happening upon lifting and setting down the rear tire in corners, correct? and it is solely for, essentially, ride height? i had to extend my ohlins almost all the way, going to tweak them but wanted to see what the community thouhgt.

 

it just keeps the main spring snug when uncompressed. you only really pre-compress the helper if you want s specific max droop travel. or (not you) you only have 1 collar adjustment, so height adjustment is pre-compressing the helper
for you the bottom collar is for height adjustment

 

if i fully compress my helper, i would only end up with 6mm droop travel with my spring rate. thats not fun

 

i dont even know how much droop travel i have but it aint much. i'm juts near ohlin's minimum threads for the lower cup threshold, so i was wanting to get some more threads on it.

 

just work with what you got. we poorer FA folks have a +1" +2" longer lower threaded tube option

 

i still don't get the irrational obsession with droop travel. if you want more droop travel run softer springs. the stock springs have a **** load of droop travel

 

lol, and I keep seeing people arguing that more droop or tender/assist springs will help prevent hop. I guess reducing grip can help with hop, Id probably go a different route tho

 

i'm not so much concerned with droop as i am that i've used up all the threads on the ohlins (ohlins marks a minimum number of threads the lower cup can thread into before it's "not safe") - i'm just about there, so i was looking for an easy way to get ride height via preloading a spring and adding back more threads at the bottom for more strength

 

We're talking about rear right? So with the main spring exactly at zero preload the lower perch is too extended for the ride height you want?

I would go with the flipped lower arm in that case.

 

yea, it's at a length overall now too where u cannot physically get the shock in there without dropping the arm, or, what i did, shorten the coilover, and then spin the threads out taller while it was in the strut top area until it reached the top.