I think this may be the case. I gave a closer look at the opposite side of the car and it has started to do the same. It cracked right to the bigger hole. The previous revision of this bushing had the holes filled with poly. Text below is an email explaining the holes and them being filled. They also explain why they don’t fill the holes anymore with poly since they didn’t see any benefit for it. But me pretty much testing both versions, the one with poly filling the holes is more durable.

From Super pro when I did a warranty claim on the previous duroball “The holes themselves are there to take up any shrinkage during the curation process in the final bushing assembly. Initially these were then ‘filled’ by that small pour of additional poly. Initially tested to see if the assembly benefitted in anyway from filling those holes (it did not) it ended up being retained as the team apparently felt it made the assembly look better. At some stage they reversed course on that as it let us remove an unnecessary step from production that had no bearing on the performance of the finished product.”

Opposite side with the crack



This is the previous revision of the bushing I had swapped out. Had these on for about 3ish years I think.


If I’m able to get a warranty claim on the current bushings I may go the route on what Dallas said and have the holes filled with poly.

 

RA/RA519675K1 ralliart bushing...

 

If thats the second set youve had fail id be asking for refund and going to another brand

 

The white line setup for that is a no brainer.

They also have a low NVH option now-

Send me a DM, I can hook any forum members up with a lot of drop shipped parts.

https://whitelineperformance.com/pro...r-rear-bushing

 

Has anyone gone from poly to metal or vice versa for the lower control arm rear(the big one)bushings? I wonder how much of a difference it is going from poly to metal. I have no problems with a poly mount in that location in terms of nvh but worried metal may make it unbearable.

 

I skipped the poly and went straight from stock to Whiteline. Absolutely not unbearable and it really helped settle down the tramlining.

 

Offset bushings may increase tramlining feel because the offset increases caster and throws off bumpsteer. The direction it changes will cause toe-in on compression since it lowers the relative position of the tie rod pivot.

 

make sure your suspension travel is max'ed out by the full shock length, and not by bushing flex. if you have stock front bushings you might want to check it for damage
I didnt feel any additional NVH with the whiteline bushings. careful installing those, I broke some sections of that groove for the circlip

 

Unless you're very sensitive to NVH you won't notice much of a difference. Personally I wouldn't consider anything other than the older Whiteline design or the Powerflex, both are sans poly and won't have failure issues. They're pretty similarly priced (the old Whiteline design is still listed for the Evo X) but the Powerflex has adjustability and doesn't require being clocked at a certain orientation when pressing it into the arm.

 

this probably doesnt answer your question but I have gone to complete ralliart grN set for every bush on the car, which is a harder rubber version of stock bushes, with spherical bearings on key points, just like the stock car has (i.e. rear lower arms, big bush on the front lower arms...) and there is no new NVH from the suspension.. only new noise is some diff whine from the harder diff bushes but there is no diff knock now when shifting hard.

 

I didn't know they made a hardened bushing version of the rear lower arms. Would've went that route instead of oem bushings when i swapped them out D:

 

ralliart versions are like oem, as they use sphericals in the same positions, just encased in harder rubber and they do not have any reliefs in the rubber like big front bushes do. Outer and inner bush for the lower rear arm is the same as OEM IIRC, as the rubber layer there is very small. Shock mount is harder tho..

 

Wish this whole set was still available. Looks like it's discontinued

 

This doesn't look like its worth the time and money. Megan has OE type engine/trans mounts. I dont like stretchy rubber suspension bushings. theyre not designed for cars on jack stand for extended periods

 

They are designed for the Group N class to add durability. Maybe the rules for Group N are more strict for what can be changed, I have the rear crossmember bushing and it is holding up well, and will be doing the engine mount inserts once I move and have space for a press. I think I would rather have these than poly tho.