well i guess someting is still ****ed bc jon just gave me the do not drive warning

 

that’s a bummer. I can’t recall hearing of a Tre issue??

 

Yeah that's a first for me.

 

yea my guess is that there's a core issue that hasn't been resolved. The new synchros are actually letting the car hold 2nd instead of totally popping out, but something is tugging on the cable when i release throttle. no idea what it could be.

 

maybe you can put a wrench on the bell housing bolt and shake/rock the whole thing to see if you have a bad bushing

 

yeah I'm gonna get under the car at some point but - if it were a bushing or too much movement, would it only impact 1st and 2nd? the other gears are solid

 

just checking what we can. btw dont jack up the bell housing. it will crack.

 

you’re in the Motorsports section. Our evo running ratio is lower than the standard population haha

 

because it is probably related to slider ring/synchro springs/shift fork/shaft / spring detents

I would still check if the input shaft circlip is seated, as that you can do without opening the box..

 

check out my bad luck with this damned car. my engine has been rebuilt again but now I have this bs phantom knock issue, exactly the same issue I just found searching the forums. fresh engine install seems to be common in these scenarios
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tom-knock.html

now i'm being forced to try haltech as last resort. does that make sense to anyone? is there a bright side to this? and yes, there were some inexperienced(IMO) techs that worked on removal/installation of the motor ugh

 

Lots of issues here with all kind of EVOs - let me add a bit more to it, luckily not as bad as some others!

Since I had issue with tire show not being able to take the lug nuts off of my car, I did go through the work and ended up replacing front ones with ARP studs, while rears decided to let go of the grip on those nuts and all of them are off. Using induction heating gun helped a ton and I have only good things to say about it. For about $250 that they go on Amazon, it is worth it for sure!

So, I managed to go back to the tire show and they finally swapped the tires and they were suppose to do alignment as well. What I was told when I came to pick the car up was that both front tie rod ends where not cooperating and they couldn't adjust them on either side. Surprisingly, they said they heated it up a bit and managed to adjust it a bit, but not all the way. Kind of puzzling there about what the hack was going on.

Then they couldn't do the rear because cam bolts on the long arm are bad on both car sides and need to be replaced.

So, I ended up with this:

All that show could do here

I guess, I need to go back to dealer to look for more parts...

Anyone knows if those tie rods could be freed up or I should just get a new pair of those too?

 

tierod ends can be replaced but you still have to unscrew them similar to adjusting toe. maybe soak it with penetrating fluid and break them loose yourself. I frequently adjust toe/centering the steering wheel so never had any issue with mine

 

Del

 

The fix in that thread was the engine harness, which was likely damaged. I would have the shop check that first. The haltech is a great improvement, but if the something in the harness for the knock sesnor is messed up, the haltech will get the same false knock readings.

 

Your car is a 2010, so this isn't uncommon. I'm sure with the mileage you could use new inner/outer tie rod ends anwyas.
It's also commmon for the rear eccentric to freeze up. I'd replace the toe and camber arms so you can install lockouts and then adjust with the arm.