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As soon as you start seeing signs of components freezing, its time to get in there for a full refreshment. At a minimum, and adjustment points should be pulled apart, cleaned, and reassembled with quality antiseize. Ideally you'd get in there and replace what you can, and grease what you cant (ball joints..)
If you just try to get by, things will get real frustrating later as it tries to become solid.
The fix in that thread was the engine harness, which was likely damaged. I would have the shop check that first. The haltech is a great improvement, but if the something in the harness for the knock sesnor is messed up, the haltech will get the same false knock readings.
That's what I told the shop guy but hes trying it out today anyway. he thinks he can work around it. maybe theres a headset/tool for sensing knock while tuning? HP/Torque/response improvement?
I'm anxious to try and find that issue with the harness once i get my car back. I cant believe this is another evo thing.
As soon as you start seeing signs of components freezing, its time to get in there for a full refreshment. At a minimum, and adjustment points should be pulled apart, cleaned, and reassembled with quality antiseize. Ideally you'd get in there and replace what you can, and grease what you cant (ball joints..)
If you just try to get by, things will get real frustrating later as it tries to become solid.
This is gospel. Brake dust can be a pita for threaded parts. dont ignore even those collars for coilovers or else you'd be in trouble when its time to make adjustments
this is also the reason I change wheel hubs ...just an opportunity to check out all those bolts
i installed shifter base bushings and underhood cable bushings. Shifting feels great, issue still exists. Given it's not happening in any other gear but 1 & 2, it can only be something internal... ****. haven't been able to discuss yet with Jon because of course.
Guess I’ll add to the fun 😆. Both of my front coilovers are leaking in this area. Had them rebuilt in July/23 and one of them was already warrantied once due to it leaking at the top where the rebound knob was. I’m kinda surprised of how quick they started leaking. Only do autocross once a month and very very minimal daily driving on top of that.
That's what I told the shop guy but hes trying it out today anyway. he thinks he can work around it. maybe theres a headset/tool for sensing knock while tuning? HP/Torque/response improvement?
I'm anxious to try and find that issue with the harness once i get my car back. I cant believe this is another evo thing.
You can work around knock with the stock ECU, don't need a haltech for that. You can raise the filters so high you can have 5v on knock voltage (max voltage from the sensor) and it won't give you a knock count.
So, the car came back from full underbody restore, with everything stripped, antirust treatment, epoxy primer, 3M rubber underseal everywhere and some paint. The car had some nice winter seasons with lots of driving around and needed some preventive maintenance. European cars regularly get massive rust problems because of road salt in the winters.. Luckily car was real good and needed no metalwork...
with everything off the car I thought this might be ideal time to scan it all.. so I sprayed some baby powder all over..
got the shining 3D out..
did the engine bay and full underbody... with block and trans scanned this will help speed up the subframe/dry sump project...
THere is the bare engine block, engine bay, rear clip, rear subframe, and "whole" underbody...
underbody is done at 1mm resolution and is about the limit of my scanner / laptop combo as it tends to have issues finding repeat tracking at the end of the car... I think this might be usefull to align the individual front/end scans but I dont know really.. I have to start playing with the files yet...
As I scan more stuff I will put it in the same folder..
You can work around knock with the stock ECU, don't need a haltech for that. You can raise the filters so high you can have 5v on knock voltage (max voltage from the sensor) and it won't give you a knock count.
yeah I read about that when I was researching. also the shop sent me a link. IIRC he tried fidgeting with that but he was saying something about the boost control being affected. I think mainly he just want me to at least make it to the Texas national tour, where I will get massacred by a 855hp 911 driven by a national champ. I do like rev-limiter sound
I dont get the 'harness being damaged'... theres got to be a-wire or a-connection that needs fixing. if the car passes smog I guess that buys me time to poke around
"A wire" or "a connection" needing fixed means the harness is damaged. Also the knock sensor wiring is shielded to prevent electronic noise interference, so the shielding could have broke.
"A wire" or "a connection" needing fixed means the harness is damaged. Also the knock sensor wiring is shielded to prevent electronic noise interference, so the shielding could have broke.
he tried a new shielded wire and new grounds and made his own mini harness, a a backup sensor but the 9 (?) knock count is still there
@MrAWD your alignment guy should have probably done something like this. in order to save the ball joint (especially in my case), you have to wedge a wrench so you can hammer away
mine got tightened too much by shop guys since theyre triple checking newbs' work ugh.
its been 6mos since I last turned this nut and its already sticking. I need this nut turning freely without turning the tierod so I can make adjustment without removing the wheels
