I think the interpretation is that there is no limitation on angle or deviation. So the diffuser is just a component of the splitter within the given limitations (only dimensional).

Anecdotally, you'll find quite a few splitter diffusers through the XA/B paddock since its generally accepted as OK.

 

seems like some fun stuff could be built. ...hmm

 

engine splash shields (obviously not an aerodynamic surface) can go behind the axle. I'm hoping it would help when I lower the splitter 1-2"

 

Baltic Birch is a distinct type of plywood, different than regular birch plywood. Baltic birch plywood would have a lot of thin layers that are all birch, laminated in opposing directions.

IIRC, the 4' x 8' baltic birch sheets generally have waterproof adhesive, too. The 5' x 5' sheets (European sizing) don't.

Marine-grade is a broader category that I'm not familiar with.

 

Found some chinese placve for cheap 3d printing in stainless... decided to try making a 3d printed version of this TS T4 EFR manifold I made... (becoming lazy to weld.. )





WIll have them make a cheap plastic one first to test... Managed to shorten the primaries from 400 to 300 mm... all same length..

 

Whats the price to make it, or rough estimate?

 

According to their price calculator (jlc3dp.com) it is between 800 to 900 bucks... plus shipping and whatever customs get slapped on over here in the EU. I will need to tap the flange threads and mill the flanges flat myself. Titanium is about 2x more. Sadly no inconell, but I will try pricing it in inconell in one of the european 3D printing companies.. just to shock myself..

 

I'll be really interested in seeing how this works out. A quick look on their website they only do 2mm wall thickness? Is that max or min?

 

2mm in the min thickness

 

yeah, it is about 2 mm minimum thickness at such part dimensions... I have used 2.6 mm wall thickness as per my original fabricated manifold. If I was doing a inconell one, might go way down in thickness..

 

well I tried the splitter mod thing and I was slow ("miata course"). I lowered it to 2.5" to the ground. I needed to build a flexible splitter "rod" but a steel braided fuel hose is all i got. It worked well tho. there's definitely new front grip on the first run but I'm getting looseness' at the rears doing sweepers & u-turns. the engine bay was too hot tho (used the AC and had timing issues) and I feel its heatsoaked. my coilover adjusters were too hot to touch. I'll give it another shot with 4 fresh tires and do something to keep engine temps down, maybe drive like the splitter isnt even installed, i think i also lost time minding the scraping

 

That's super cool - well done
The rad thing with twin scroll is it's less important to have equal length as there is less exhaust valve overlap.
And you can join up the runner's outer diameter also, if you want to. I guess you've left room there for expansion etc.
Certainly opens up a lot of options for design!

I'm running a 7670 T4 TS IWG on my setup, I love it.

 

Venting the front guards might help with your temps? Spacers on the rear edge perhaps?
I added ~30lbs with my front splitter design, and it definitely made a decent difference

 

thanks. at track speeds a lot more fresh air can get into the engine bay and push thru the hood vent and other exits. but for autox speeds & getting to the start line, I think I messed up the heat venting. I also put a panel under the IC so most of the air can only get in thru the rad fins. I'm thinking I should ramp fresh air up behind the splitter & radiator to promote evacuation thru the hood vent and get a bit more air circulation. I'll remove the bottom splash shield for now so I dont trap the heat from the oilpan and downpipe

 

thx..
I like that honda actuator.. that is on my to do list too...