How do you like the IWG EFR 7670?

I remember a few complaints on this forum about the IWG housing on the smaller 7163 being problematic. There's an old thread where English Racing says that the 7163 IWG housing shouldn't be used under any circumstances. Is the 7670 IWG better in the regard? Or is that why you used the Honda WG actuator to keep it controlled?

I like that Hypertune manifold. Full-Race had some great manifolds for the Evo but they all disappeared from their website recently. I wonder if they'd still make one to order.

 

Yeah the 7163 Twin scroll is only 0.80 A/R from memory, and smaller turbine wheel so you'll reach choke flow sooner.

Honestly I love the 7670, it's amazing. For the wastegate control it was either a dual port turbosmart unit, or the electric. I had a spare DBW output on the Emtron, so I did it that way.
I've heard stories about the boost falling off in the top end with the normal BorgWarner boost actuator, i'm guessing the flapper opens and can't close up with high flow. That's where the Turbosmart dual port works well.
If I command 7-8psi boost with the Honda actuator, it will creep up to around 14-15psi by redline, so I do want to slightly port the wastegate entry and see if I can get that down.
There is a bunch of bracket/breakout racing here in NZ and my car is too fast now, so being able to run less boost would be nice.

We made around 700nm (500+ ftlb) at the wheels at just over 3000rpm on the dyno, we had to calm down the boost threshold early on as we lifted the head.
It pulls all the way to 7500rpm with a 2.3+Mivec engine, doesn't fall off. And i'm about 18k-20k under the turbine limit. So very happy overall.
Having the stainless steel exhaust housing is great piece of mind as i've cracked and mangled a few stock frame turbo exhaust housing.

 

New project for the Evo, front sway bar!
Going to a thru-bar setup for a much heavier rate bar to give it a go.
I've found that going heavy on the front spring has helped a lot, so i'm guessing it's a symptom of the bar rate being too low.

With the Evo 4-6 CP9A chassis the transfer case goes under the rack and the subframe, so there is space here to do this.
It's very tight, but I should be able to make it work.
I'll be using a 1" solid chromoly bar inside a 1 3/4" tube welded into the chassis.

I'm tying the rollcage through to the front strut towers also, i've found some of the sheetmetal has cracks from stress. This should help stiffen up the front a lot also.

Example bar mockup:


Example of the Fire Ando and Tilton Interiors setup

 

I dont like front bar over spring because it works in effect by unloading the inside wheel. Which IMO is the opposite of what you want on the front of an Evo. It works in the rear because the unloading of one inside wheel is matched with the loading of the other because total weight transfer is fixed and bars just move the ratios around.

One thing I wonder about, do we have chassis stiffness numbers comparing CT9A and CP9A? A flexier chassis will reduced the effective cross transfer forces making small bar changes less effective. DSMs were pretty bad for this, especially with a sunroof. The chassis is so flexy you almost cant lift a rear tire and nothing compared to how much Evos do.

 

yeah the setup i'm going to use, I can either use a 1" solid chromoly torsion bar or a 0.77" solid chromoly torsion bar.
Rates will go from 1800 lb/in right down to 280 lb/in depending on the length of the arm.
So I can go from standard rates up to 600% stiffer

Very interested to see how it goes

 

LICP silicone coupler (non FMIC side) burst at the track yesterday - the pop was so loud I was sure I popped the turbo. First time this has happened, almost split itself in half, while the clamps still held. Bummed because it was my second session on track and it's been a while.

 

what brand? you got to really check on those parts especially when you get "techs" work on your car. man, now i'm going to worry about mine going. i put a heatshield on this one i hope it helps

 

maperformance. I've had it since 2019 (installed myself). just a random failure. haven't gotten under the car yet.

 

you had transmission work IIRC. the problem techs these days take pride in short cutting (finishing way quicker than estimated) and hoses usually get damaged

 

ah maybe? in any case, hopefully just the hose gets replaced and I'll be good to go. it's a bummer. lost massive track time. It's a reducer so not just a simple straight hose.
might buy 2 to keep one on hand.

 

I've ended too many track/autox events early because of issues coming from other people working on my car. it's practically guaranteed since its usually the least experienced ones doing the work

 

it held up at the autox pretty well at the previous event.. but yea too much wot on the track comparatively. it was right as i shifted from 3rd into 4th, so wot, off, wot. insane pop.

went stainless steel as opposed to aluminum for the strength but silicone is silicone haha.

 

That's a common issue, nothing to do with whoever worked on it last. Too much ambient heat that close to the downpipe for silicone, it eventually weakens and splits on tracked cars. Before switching to vanjen clamps I was carrying multiple spares with me to the track.

 

idk what a vanjen clamp is but the clamps held on, it just burst in the middle. gonna call map today to order 2.

 

umm It has not happened to me or any of the evos with me on the track. theres also a lot of airflow under the IC even if the splash shield is installed. if you have a splitter maybe it'll make it too hot in there. if you were using worm clamps before yeah maybe thats more to be the problem
IIRC kyoo also had 71HTA installed recently