Tires is the most important in the snow/wet. its the input to those other mechanical things and to the driver. you need enough force on those wheels to fling snow packed into the threads. if youre just goofing around in snow thats a totally different discussion

 

with 8k fronts i'd probably run 16k rears. and with Dallas' magic uprights, what is your front ride height? It's actually quite easy to get the front roll center too high and cause understeer.

 

Did someone say they're looking for a big brake kit that doesn't kill your wallet? 6 pot caliper, super common pad shape (tons of compounds available), uses Evo X rotor so replacement rotors are easy and cost controllable. Calipers can be configured with different colors of paint, dust boots and aluminum pistons for street use or hard anodized finish with no dust boots and stainless steel pistons for track use.

Hoping to have it on the market by end of Q2 this year.

 

Would this work for X as well?

 

Had a strange event with the car last night. I started the car and left the house and about 30 sec on that ride, it felt like a fuel cut and RPMs started to jump down and up. If I would left the throttle pedal off, car would stall. There was a strong smell of gas in the air, but no gas leaks. After about 2 min of that RPM bouncing and keeping the car running with moving the throttle pedal a lot, it stabilized and let me go on to the gym. After the gym it didn't do that any more, but car didn't cool off all the way in 90 min or so.

Is there some kind of sensor on throttle body that might not be happy when it is cold? Air flow meter perhaps?

Any other idea what this could be?

 

I don't keep the car super low. i don't have the exact measurements but I can clear most parking curbs in the front without scratching the lip, and the rear is slightly lower than the front. The only thing is I lost a ton of suspension travel in the rear with these uprights, but I don't think that is contributing to it, but I did the uprights and diffs at the same time. the car feels like a fwd open diff car on power.

 

the highest you can reasonably run is with the front control arms level, if the control arms slope down towards the wheel it's going to be an understeer problem. Ideally you want the roll center near ground level which means the control arm would have just a bit of upward slope toward the wheel.

 

the car is handling well dynamically, it is just power-on understeering. turns in great, good grip, then on gas the front end just washes away. 3.8ish degrees of camber in front

 

I was never a fan of having rear end of our cars lower then the front. Just a simple raising the rear to be above the front would help a ton regarding the oversteer that you were referring to. Having wheel rates much higher in the rear would be also something I would consider.

 

i dont even know if I can, the uprights made the rear ride height and quality so weird. I had to flip the control arms to get everything to fit.

 

You might need to consider a bit longer rear shocks if you can't raise as much as you might need...if that is the problem you are having there

 

Good question. I have no idea haha.

 

i think it should. the X calipers just have longer 'legs' and bigger bolt holes

 

Match the bolt spacing for Evo X and then use steel inserts for 7/8/9. Same thing that Dallas did on the hubs he makes.

 

Not everyone has a version like that, but all the ones going forward are machined 14mm with a 1mm steel sleeve pressed in for 8/9 use. Also found I could put both the 8/9 and X ABS sensor mounts making basically a universal upright. Also means I can convert 8/9 to X but not the other way around.