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yeah when I hear fluid transfers and venturis i just feel theres an ideal pressure differential required to let nature do what its supposed to do. I remember reading some gumming issue with overly vented e85 thats why I put a check valve on mine. still works. I remember putting in 10 gallons post race in my last few 2 days events
if i ever get this issue I would just pump from the drain to the return line. I bought the parts for the experiment but have not figured out how to measure the fluid level inside the bowl after adding the gate at the balance tube whatchumacallit
Just add a simple low amp pump to the passenger side. I added a small float switch so that the aux pump is switched off when the pass side runs dry (to protect the pump). Remove the venturi. You cant overfill the main bowl and even with a small lift pump you will keep the main bowl filled. I am out of car and money to do a propper test, but if anyone wants to serously experiment with this, I can donate a set... (the lift pump side.. top one on the pic)
Last edited by kikiturbo; Feb 8, 2024 at 02:39 AM.
Reason: add pic
Just add a simple low amp pump to the passenger side. I added a small float switch so that the aux pump is switched off when the pass side runs dry (to protect the pump). Remove the venturi. You cant overfill the main bowl and even with a small lift pump you will keep the main bowl filled. I am out of car and money to do a propper test, but if anyone wants to serously experiment with this, I can donate a set... (the lift pump side.. top one on the pic)
Thanks @kikiturbo . since i wanted to try something with the gate I put on the balance(?) tube and if I pump fuel into the return line. could I end up overfilling and pressurizing the bowl and blowing the seal? or does it just overflows back into the tank? My take is more about using a transfer pump running 100% and technically wont be running dry below Empty.
Evo 6 is back up and running again today after fixing 3rd gear and pulling the prototype oil pump for inspections.
I've installed an ATS front carbon diff, very interested to see how it goes.
CP9A chassis uses the viscous coupling unit for the centre diff, no ACD here.
Required some machining to make it work.
Breakaway torque (initial preload) on this is high, approx 300nm or 220ftlb.
Thanks @kikiturbo . since i wanted to try something with the gate I put on the balance(?) tube and if I pump fuel into the return line. could I end up overfilling and pressurizing the bowl and blowing the seal? or does it just overflows back into the tank? My take is more about using a transfer pump running 100% and technically wont be running dry below Empty.
just flows back into the tank... it is not sealed..
just flows back into the tank... it is not sealed..
I dont understand the gate on the balance tube?
I want to slow down the unfilling of the bowl by putting this flap. its a POC/prototype. I tested by filling 1/3 the bowl thru the top and it took about 1.5min to level out so the bowl empties slow enough.
The general idea is to actually turn this bowl into a surge tank, bowl filled to the brim. I tried to see if I could measure how full it is by reading the fuel sender resistance but it seems the ohm range is too small
No, the gauge correlates the sum of the resistance of both floats. It would read correctly at full but error would increase as fuel level drops, an empty tank would read as 2/3 full roughly.
No, the gauge correlates the sum of the resistance of both floats. It would read correctly at full but error would increase as fuel level drops, an empty tank would read as 2/3 full roughly.
ok thanks. but what about giving the right side plug an ohm value equivalent to empty? actually I will ponder a bit more on this, just need to brush up on basic electronics
ok thanks. but what about giving the right side plug an ohm value equivalent to empty? actually I will ponder a bit more on this, just need to brush up on basic electronics
The only way that comes to mind would be to build some sort of emulator out of a raspberry pi or something that reads the driver side float resistance and uses that to create a corresponding resistance on another circuit plugged into where the passenger float would be plugged in. There might be a more simple way but nothing else comes to mind at the moment.
The only way that comes to mind would be to build some sort of emulator out of a raspberry pi or something that reads the driver side float resistance and uses that to create a corresponding resistance on another circuit plugged into where the passenger float would be plugged in. There might be a more simple way but nothing else comes to mind at the moment.
you could pull the pass side sensor, tie it with a zip tie so that it shows empty or full and then the fuel gauge would measure only the main tank..
OK, many of you have way better technical minds than myself.
Overboosting mechanical checklist may include: Stuck 3-port EBCS, stuck WGA. Stuck WG. Clogged vacuum line. Vacuum line not connected or leaking.
Am I missing anything? I've read that when MAC valves fail, they fail completely. I'm having issues with running lean ever since my tune 1100 miles ago. Weird thing is after a long enough drive it will stop and boost/afr the way it should. Could it be the tune? electrical? I though it might be fuel pressure related after removing EVAP/EGR, venting tank to atmosphere, haven't inspected hangars yet, but don't believe the issue is there. Everything vacuum line related looks good.
Lastly, could a faulty fuel pump relay be the cause? After my rebuild, I sometimes get clicking at first start or randomly after warm up from the interior fuse panel/ETACS area. Which is weird, I never heard this sound before. I removed a single din radio and an alarm system which was tapped into some wires of the ETACS and fuse panel.
you could pull the pass side sensor, tie it with a zip tie so that it shows empty or full and then the fuel gauge would measure only the main tank..
it seems to make sense but doubt it would work. you have to end up with ~4ohm in total to show Full on the gauge. i'll need something to multiply leftside resistance 3x so by itself its range will be ~6 to 110ohm. or divide the current by 3
or i can just put a peep hole/hose lol
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Feb 10, 2024 at 09:14 AM.
Evo 6 is back up and running again today after fixing 3rd gear and pulling the prototype oil pump for inspections.
I've installed an ATS front carbon diff, very interested to see how it goes.
CP9A chassis uses the viscous coupling unit for the centre diff, no ACD here.
Required some machining to make it work.
What's the maintenance schedule like with those carbon front diffs?
IIRC there was some debate about carbon bits getting into the transfer case fluid.
it seems to make sense but doubt it would work. you have to end up with ~4ohm in total to show Full on the gauge. i'll need something to multiply leftside resistance 3x so by itself its range will be ~6 to 110ohm. or divide the current by 3