speaking of body, @Dallas J while this is less of a concern for autox, any thoughts on our very old school exposed underbody? are there any gains to be had with covering up exposed bits with streamlined plastic, arm-mounted air guides, etc.? i've got f1 groudn effects on my mind but seems like these days even mild performance cars leave a lot covered, or have air guides on the rear arms that prevent air going into the rear bumper (acting like a parachut).

personally i still run the factory undertray, will die on that hill. has nice little air guides that direct air flow to the brakes/factory brake air guides, curious if there's anything else.

 

I had one of the steering rack captive nuts break off. had to holesaw a hole from the underside so i could grab the nut with some vicegrips to loosen it. now i have a little panel which goes over the hole and i need 2 people if i want to undo my steering rack as it has a nyloc installed. One day ill go tubular frames just very cost prohibitive haha

 

crap. my front engine mount bolt on the subframe is starting to get tight since I got a shop to work on my car I need to chase the threads ASAP

 

looking pretty good after 30k miles and a lot of abuse. only making, 360whp helps obviously. not too sure yet what caused the jam, some synchro wear and one of the keys on 3-4 fell out. but the gears themselves look all right. Think they'll do some rounding or something to them.

 

Yea I have no idea where alot of comments about the evos weak transmission come from. The 5 spd is a workhorse that if you know how to drive can take major abuse. The 6 spd holds up pretty well also.

 

I think it's just a weird design where things start falling off as the synchros wear. but again, only 360whp. if you're making 500lbft it's going to break things

 

yea, after 400lbft the entire drivetrain should be due for an upgrade and the clutch should be the weakest point if any..

 

Plenty of owners out there that don't know how to operate a transversely mounted transmissions correctly

 

yeah myself included. I need to do a better job not pulling on the gear before I've got the clutch fully down. it's tough when you're doing it quickly though.

 

Yikes I guess I'm the problem. I've broken so many things and I dont even hard launch the car, but I have not broken anything I got from TRE.
The latest from my bad luck streak is its seems my MIVEC cam gear is clunking. It seems to be uncommon judging by the search results

 

I've deaded a few DSM transmissions and learned from expensive mistakes. That and proper clutch pedal adjustment.

 

as i understand it the design of the gearbox and where the bearings are housed is the weak point. The gears are trying to spread apart and if you shift too violently or put too much power through them they push the gears apart and bam. Have also seen them punch the bearing out the end of the case

 

Big brake kit coming up in the next couple of months. Uses 350x32mm Evo X rotor, EBC 6 pot caliper, billet aluminum mounting bracket. Bias is within 2% of stock, tons of rotor and pad options. Just checked yesterday and it will fit under some 17" wheels, but we'll have a fitment template on the site to check before you buy. Shooting for sub $2000 with 1 piece rotors and $26-2700 with 2 piece rotors. Will not include pads or braided lines, but we may change it to include lines depending on if the stock lines are long enough or not.

 

u find a tester running dallas's knuckles?

i assume this won't fit under the oem bbs 17"s right?

 

We did double check they clear in CAD but Im guessing Luca will probably be running the setup next season.