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What fuel are you using? The setup on my car when i got it was a stock longblock with a BBK-B and it made a pretty conservative 400/405 @25psi with E85.
93 fuel. ID 1000, Walbro 255. Tuner complimented my car and said It could have made more but kept things base. I was hoping for at least 350. It's a 139k mile stock block. No idea what compression is like but I'm sure it's decent.
93 fuel. ID 1000, Walbro 255. Tuner complimented my car and said It could have made more but kept things base. I was hoping for at least 350. It's a 139k mile stock block. No idea what compression is like but I'm sure it's decent.
Yea that's what I would expect from a conservative 93 tune. I was on 1400cc injectors and the same 255 pump at that time. Manual boost controller, those were the days lol
I wonder why my setup makes a fair bit more then? Im guessing you guys are talking about the BBK-3B? Or is the -B something different?
Granted Im not on a stock block, but 92oct and 18psi I make 420hp. Thats on the equivalent of the BBK-Full BB, the blouch 1.0xtr. 30psi on E85 of course makes a bunch more.
I wonder why my setup makes a fair bit more then? Im guessing you guys are talking about the BBK-3B? Or is the -B something different?
Granted Im not on a stock block, but 92oct and 18psi I make 420hp. Thats on the equivalent of the BBK-Full BB, the blouch 1.0xtr. 30psi on E85 of course makes a bunch more.
Yea, talking about the 3B, not sure if they ever made a journal bearing version. 420hp at 18psi seems pretty on the high side for the compressor that the 1.0xtr uses, what kind of dyno was it? Larger than stock cams definitely help but wouldn't be anything earth shattering on a turbo that size. But yea, like I said, conservative tune, my car never had a single temperature issue running hot laps for 30 mins straight on track. With the wick turned up that turbo can do 500hp without turning into a total oven, I was more concerned with getting seat time than getting the car retuned for more power.
Yea, talking about the 3B, not sure if they ever made a journal bearing version. 420hp at 18psi seems pretty on the high side for the compressor that the 1.0xtr uses, what kind of dyno was it? Larger than stock cams definitely help but wouldn't be anything earth shattering on a turbo that size. But yea, like I said, conservative tune, my car never had a single temperature issue running hot laps for 30 mins straight on track. With the wick turned up that turbo can do 500hp without turning into a total oven, I was more concerned with getting seat time than getting the car retuned for more power.
It is a built 9.0 2.2l, and that was what it made at english racing on their DJ when we were dialing in the motec. So 18psi and 92oct made 420hp and 30psi on e85 made 520hp. 30psi was peak of course, it drops to around 27psi at 8k.
Head is cleaned up of casting flash and deshrouded with S1 cams, nothing crazy but of course a bit better than fully stock.
What I'm more curious about, which part of the setup is primarily responsible for that difference.
ER 2.2
S2 cams
curt brown head
curt brown intake
blouche 2.0
we made 487whp. I forget the dyno but it’s one of those hub dynos.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
It is a built 9.0 2.2l, and that was what it made at english racing on their DJ when we were dialing in the motec. So 18psi and 92oct made 420hp and 30psi on e85 made 520hp. 30psi was peak of course, it drops to around 27psi at 8k.
Head is cleaned up of casting flash and deshrouded with S1 cams, nothing crazy but of course a bit better than fully stock.
What I'm more curious about, which part of the setup is primarily responsible for that difference.
These days its cheaper and easier to just get somebody to CNC it. Im sure ayoustin or Dallas could have done it for you if you drew it for them.
I am not sure.. all the quotes I got were around 1500 eur+ per side... and that was a simpler design. Unfortunately i am in Europe.. US seems more accessible with regards to CNC stuff...
On the other hand this is more of a self development project and relaxation from daily grind on work.. so I do not mind spending some free time on it.. I have no aspirations on doing a production run so I am fine with manual setup..
Speaking of uprights... a Citroen DS rally 2 upright (so, one level under WRC) costs 14 grand.. whoa..
IIRC it does include the trick rally hub (modern rally cars use huge hubs with big bearings and the outer CV practically sits inside the hub)... but still yeah.. crazy prices.. Steering arm... just one.. is 2.5 grand..
I turned these inserts that go in the bottom of the upright.. 24x2 mm thread on the outside, and 18x1.5 on the inside.. A arm bolts into it with a beefy 18 mm bolt.. This is a blatant copy of what Rally 2 cars run... Takes me maybe 45 min on a manual lathe and manual mill to do it in some tough chrome vanadium steel.. and I am far from a experienced machinist.. Citroen Racing price... 400 bucks.. hahahaha
We use poly, rubber doesn't last as long, isn't as heat tolerant (it gets a good amount softer when near heat), and it's much more of a pain to replace because it has to be bonded to a press fit steel housing. The poly we use is made in USA and they're readily available bushings that can be swapped out with a basic pry tool.
Our street bushings are usually in the 70-75A range and our track bushings are usually 85-95A (application dependent).
I dont doubt that you make a good product. My main issue with poly is that over time they tend to deform around the bolt hole metal sleeve creating slack and defeating the purpose of the bushing. I noticed this with my poly front roll stop mount. The sleeve used to be a very tight fit, now it slides in and out like butter. Rubber will get softer but will hold its shape and absorb vibration much better since it has better elasticity.
Yea that's what I would expect from a conservative 93 tune. I was on 1400cc injectors and the same 255 pump at that time. Manual boost controller, those were the days lol
Here's the graph. E85 is hard to come by here in the Philly area.
BBK-B spec turbo built by AGT. Specs are 6 blade, 57x76mm billet compressor wheel, 54mm turbine wheel with a flow rate of 57lb/min
Originally Posted by Evo9isLife
I dont doubt that you make a good product. My main issue with poly is that over time they tend to deform around the bolt hole metal sleeve creating slack and defeating the purpose of the bushing. I noticed this with my poly front roll stop mount. The sleeve used to be a very tight fit, now it slides in and out like butter. Rubber will get softer but will hold its shape and absorb vibration much better since it has better elasticity.
I'm gonna have to check this out on my older Blox front mount. Don't remember when I put it all back together. Bushing does show stress marks around sleeve that I noticed.
