yea I'm not in a rush since it's the off season for me. This was literally the last event of the year I was going to attend, and then get the trans rebuilt after. My TRE 6 speed has about 30k miles on it now, with heavy abuse from track & autox. It did all right. The gears are still probably fine too, no grinding or anything, just shift fork engagement that went.

And even then I think I know the culprit. I noticed myself when I shift, there are times when I start pulling the gear out at the same time I put in the clutch, rather than full clutch then gear out. That probably caused the shift fork wear.

 

I experienced something similar before and after I broke my trans. I thought it was some effect of converting to SD but later I feel there's still load on the 2nd gear when I shift. I should probably bleed my clutch just to make sure

 

for me it's just moving my hand before my clutch foot

 

A few details to trim still... but at least I am on the final shape.. might test fit next week.. Oddly enough, the worst part was finding the 18x1.5x100 mm bolt in 12.9 grade to fit the lower arm.. Even the brake caliper studs were an easy find (part of ARP head bolt kit for a renault clio 2.0... )

 

Very impressive doing this all by hand on a manual machine.

Ive been working on Tesla parts to finally get that kit finished up.

 

Deep pocketing on a manual mill is horrendous.. hahah


Nice work on the tesla stuff, as always..

I had no idea T3 had twin arms in the front... must give you some nice options on the front end kinematics!

 

Hmmmm the adjustment knob on my front coilover is leaking. Had it rebuilt a couple months ago and I noticed a weird oil spot inside the wheel well but couldn’t find out what it’s from. Well today I saw a small pool of oil forming around the camber plate. Bummer I have state champs this Sunday also. I do notice though when compression is set at a softer rate, the coilover makes a noise that sounds like air being compressed, kinda like a hand pump.

 

I had to tighten the adjusters when I got mine back from FA. see if that helps

 

The adjuster assembly isn't what seals oil in the shock, so if its leaking there, tightening it won't help.

 

I think i saw a very small o-ring on that adjuster rod but yeah it doesnt seem likely that its the primary seal

 

Tried tightening the adjustment knob more but it was pretty damn tight already. Knob stops leaking oil if I press down on it a couple of times and then stops. But if I get the coilover to compress, then it leaks a little more.

Anywho looks like FA is gonna send me a shipping label, so I’ll just send it off to them after the event.

 

Whelp I went to remove a crush washer on the engine drain plug since it was leaking a tiny bit. When I pulled the plug it has this sticking to it, nothing else.

I did recently pull my pan to install a used racefab pan. It was cut open to have it fully cleaned out since it got bead blast material in it when I got it ceramic coated. Not sure if it’s normal or not but I do recall the first time starting it up the oil pressure was jumping around, like high pressure, low pressure, like it hd air pockets or something. But overall everything seems fine…. Or isn’t. Thoughts?

One side is metallic looking color and the other is blackish almost.

 

Drop the pan and pull rod caps to see what the rod bearings look like. It's rare that bearing material comes off in such large pieces so it could be part of the pan from cutting it and it got dislodged over time, but if there's a bearing going out it's better to catch it now than need a new rod, crankshaft and oil pump later.

 

Thanks for the deets. I’m gonna drain the oil and paint strainer to see if there’s any metal first.

 

Don't paint strainer the oil.

Just cut the filter open.

Also, bearing material is generally not magnetic unless, somehow, a piece of the steel backing plate came off. But you'll see all the shiny stuff in the filter and would have severe rod knock if that was the case.

I'd bet that was a piece of metal in the new pan.