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OK, many of you have way better technical minds than myself.
Overboosting mechanical checklist may include: Stuck 3-port EBCS, stuck WGA. Stuck WG. Clogged vacuum line. Vacuum line not connected or leaking.
Am I missing anything? I've read that when MAC valves fail, they fail completely. I'm having issues with running lean ever since my tune 1100 miles ago. Weird thing is after a long enough drive it will stop and boost/afr the way it should. Could it be the tune? electrical? I though it might be fuel pressure related after removing EVAP/EGR, venting tank to atmosphere, haven't inspected hangars yet, but don't believe the issue is there. Everything vacuum line related looks good.
Lastly, could a faulty fuel pump relay be the cause? After my rebuild, I sometimes get clicking at first start or randomly after warm up from the interior fuse panel/ETACS area. Which is weird, I never heard this sound before. I removed a single din radio and an alarm system which was tapped into some wires of the ETACS and fuse panel.
Am I on the right track? part out? lol lmk
Sorry, I'm having a hard time following this post. So are you overboosting and going lean at the same time? Or are those two separate issues occurring at different times?
When you say the issues go away after a long drive, do they come back? Or does the lean/overboost issue only occur shortly after you start the car?
Finally: Are you set up for data logging with a full-range MAP sensor? Connecting an OP and getting some data logs during the issue would help a lot. Even better if you can log AFR with it.
Sorry, I'm having a hard time following this post. So are you overboosting and going lean at the same time? Or are those two separate issues occurring at different times?
When you say the issues go away after a long drive, do they come back? Or does the lean/overboost issue only occur shortly after you start the car?
Finally: Are you set up for data logging with a full-range MAP sensor? Connecting an OP and getting some data logs during the issue would help a lot. Even better if you can log AFR with it.
haha that's fair! These AEM gauges are junk. Electronic boost sensor type gauge and the AEM wideband needs extra stuff to log AFRs in evoscan. I haven't yet but yes ur right, datalogs would solve this so I'll check for knock when I get a chance.
The issue comes and goes as it pleases. I've just been watching AFRs closely. I don't trust the boost gauge readings. I gotta find better gauges.
I was tuned on ecu controlled boost, OEM map sensor. Thanks I'll keep diggin.
Junction block diagram shows (2) fuel pump relays tied into all kinds of connectors that an alarm was tapped into. This is why I am suspecting they failed causing this weird problem. I got a hold of some relays and I'll do a log and see if I'm still scratching my ***** after or not.
No, the gauge correlates the sum of the resistance of both floats. It would read correctly at full but error would increase as fuel level drops, an empty tank would read as 2/3 full roughly.
I think the answer is right there. if i set the right side to full (2ohms, which is 2/3 tank) i can read the remaining 1/3 fuel gauge action to determine the level in the bowl
OK, many of you have way better technical minds than myself.
Overboosting mechanical checklist may include: Stuck 3-port EBCS, stuck WGA. Stuck WG. Clogged vacuum line. Vacuum line not connected or leaking.
Am I missing anything? I've read that when MAC valves fail, they fail completely. I'm having issues with running lean ever since my tune 1100 miles ago. Weird thing is after a long enough drive it will stop and boost/afr the way it should. Could it be the tune? electrical? I though it might be fuel pressure related after removing EVAP/EGR, venting tank to atmosphere, haven't inspected hangars yet, but don't believe the issue is there. Everything vacuum line related looks good.
Lastly, could a faulty fuel pump relay be the cause? After my rebuild, I sometimes get clicking at first start or randomly after warm up from the interior fuse panel/ETACS area. Which is weird, I never heard this sound before. I removed a single din radio and an alarm system which was tapped into some wires of the ETACS and fuse panel.
Am I on the right track? part out? lol lmk
is this based on idling speeds or off-throttle only? I have my own issue after EGR/Evap deletes and post SD tune
The bigger issue with the ATS front differential is it breaks. I had one fail the spider gears which broke the whole transfer case (could see the remaining spider gears from the outside). I had another one break the case by the splines that plug into the vcu. I gave up after that.
Two tires on my car are constantly leaking at a very slow pace. It is more exaggerated in the winter for some reason, where I need to add some air every week or two. In the summer, it is much rarer that they would need air.
So, this happens with brand new tires as well, so I definitely don't have a hole in them. So, what other thing are there to consider?
Crack in those two wheels - I find this quite unlikely, since it has been like this for years now, but worth to do another check
Bent rims - they do look fine with some abuse that happened to them over the years, but none of them look like places where to air would leak from. I did take those our and kept them in a big pot with water to see if there are any bubbles, but I could never find any
Valves - now this one has higher probability for causing this. One thing is that those inserts seem to be unique and apparently typical tire places don't seem to have replacement for those. Is there a place that you might know where one can get replacement for those?
Seals around those valves - I have never checked those on my own, but it is possible that air could leak there as well. Is this something people need to change a lot? What I mean here is the whole TPMS unit, which would require my ECU code correction, I guess
Any other ideas are more then welcome! I am getting a new set of tires tomorrow and I would love to have a solution for this...
Only other thing is bead corrosion but usually on daily drivers. Tire leaks are always more prevalent in winter. TPMS leaks are common. Also check valve cores. Inflating to 40psi and spraying the hell out of the tire with soapy water is always my first step. If possible, dunk and submerge wheel and tire.
Spray some soapy water around the valve stem, see if that's what it is.
The tire shop should be replacing the TPMS seal, nuts and valve core every tire change.
That is how I figured out they were not doing it (yet, they would still charge me for it). When I pressed them about this, they told me they didn't have those that match EVO X ones...scum..
