Ive even had them come loose with red loctite and nordlocks. Theres a lot going on at 9500rpm attached to that dinosaur 4g63 lol.

I started ordering bolts predrilled for safety wire, but this is a great idea too.

 

and like dinosaurs they’re still stronger than 99% of what’s made today. I had to say it 😂

 

Gents, whats the best approach for replacing the alternator? from the top or bottom? I have to do this real quickly some time tomorrow. Thanks!
the battery light comes on(11-12v) and off (13.7v). now its permanently on

 

driveshaft off and from below.. you will need some access from above to get the top bolt off tho...

 

Top sucks and only really works on non-ABS cars, bottom sucks in general, what I found is easiest is removing the upper IC pipe and TB and passing it under the intake manifold.

 

Neat approach. Never thought to do that!

 

I never thought of that too lol. smart!

 

They come out the top for me as long as its a stock intake manifold. Taking the motor mount off and lifting the engine helps.

 

Oh wait I have heater hoses

 

Last time I did it, only way out was down with the axle pulled. I typically find things like these are just quicker to jump in it going the known route rather than experimenting with "maybe" approaches. Popping the axle out is 2 bolts and a nut, although large ones, and a pry bar to break the axle free.

Other benefit, just accessing the alternator to disconnect and unbolt is also significantly better.

 

That's what I'm after, no time for trial & error. Does it fit without lowering the motor/disconnecting the LICP & downpipe(i dont want to strain them)?

 

I do too, didn't find them to be much of an obstacle, they're high enough up that you can go under them. I had to set the alternator down on the t-case to reposition but it wasn't difficult. The problem I have with pulling the axle is having to deal with fluid replacement afterward. Extra work I just don't want to deal with.

 

I dont know man. I just put my engine together and I know I struggle a bit to put wrenches on the transmission bolt. i guess I screwed myself going aftermarket heater hose, cleaning up battery wiring and having several small oil separators that returns oil
I dont think you need to replace the diff fluid. in fact I might need to reduce the fill (and divert the drip away from my downpipe lol)

 

100% agree - I get caught in that trap trying to save time rather than biting the bullet and doing the known method often.


However the alternator on the HCC can be be pulled out the top with no axle removal

 

done. downpipe, axle stub and belt tensioner needs to be removed. some trickery needed to bolt to the upper bracket