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unfortunately no one at ohlins makes a bottom cup to extend the rears. frustrating.
I have seen evoX bottoms extended, but not by modding the cup, but rather extending the steel part that attaches to the lower arm... Quite an easy thing to fab
I spoke to shaftworks and they said their bilanx coilovers have the same thread pitch (m52x1.5) - he is asking what length I am requesting from the top of the lower mount to the center of the mounting hole at the bottom -
I'm going to get the car back today and I'll measure, but I was roughly thinking 30mm anyway - does anyone have any input.
Also curious if "overextending" the coilover length will have a negative impact on the suspension/handling. I'll essentially be pushing the arm down lower than how the knuckle "naturally" wants it to sit. may be a question for @Dallas J
None of this makes sense to me still, even with flipped ohlins not having enough droop, youd be basically in need or more droop on standard uprights and normal position control arms.
If you make the lower mount 30mm longer, you'd add about 42mm to droop at max adjustment (assuming you're actually at full extended travel now). You can always shorten from there of course or flip arm back to standard.
yea i'm not saying i need 30mm more, but maybe another 10 or so and there's not much else I can do. especially when I run the big wheels, want more clearance. don't have pulled fenders and stuff like that, just got the RTAs on today so I'm good on that front at least.
I knew it! As Dallas said you can just screw in the shock into the cup to shorten it.
both the FA and Bilanx cups are 180mm ish. I got a +60mm cup from FA when I was chasing the length of my KWV3. The Bilanx have a longer shock.
One "inconvenience" with the +60mm was the locking nut is right beside the upper control arm. not a big deal.
yea all of that depends on the height you're looking for. i dont plan on raising the car 30mm in the rear - i think it's about perfect to flip the control arms back and bump the rear height maybe 10mm or so.
shaftworks confirmed they have a 243mm long bottom cup for the ohlins. just means i'll be able to screw the bottom cup higher onto the body of the coilover.
shaftworks confirmed they have a 243mm long bottom cup for the ohlins. just means i'll be able to screw the bottom cup higher onto the body of the coilover.
bought the "bilanx" lower cups that are 243mm long. I'll install them in a couple of weeks. I'll swap the lower arms back to the original setups and still have 20mm to play with in terms of rear ride height to get the rear tire a little more out fo the wheel arch.
yeah, it's not long enough and @rustykan 's looks exactly like mine, though I have flipped the control arms which helped a little, but I'm already at the most I can add height to at the bottom. it's just too tucked in right now. you saw his pics in the above post right?
im just catching up cause i havent been on here for a while, Im a bit confused what your trying to achieve. ive scrolled back a bit and cant really work it out. With the ohlin DFV when u read the manual for them ohlin's recommend if u want to increase or decrease ride height you increase/decrease the spring perch height rather than winding the shock body like some other brands. "preload" doesnt exist on a constant tension spring like used in a car so your not making the spring harder or anything.
All you need to do if u you want more height is to wind the spring perch up or put a longer spring in. Unless youve done all that and youve got a droop travel issue which will be the shock length. Again strange issue to have if your using a DFV designed for the evo.
im just catching up cause i havent been on here for a while, Im a bit confused what your trying to achieve. ive scrolled back a bit and cant really work it out. With the ohlin DFV when u read the manual for them ohlin's recommend if u want to increase or decrease ride height you increase/decrease the spring perch height rather than winding the shock body like some other brands. "preload" doesnt exist on a constant tension spring like used in a car so your not making the spring harder or anything.
All you need to do if u you want more height is to wind the spring perch up or put a longer spring in. Unless youve done all that and youve got a droop travel issue which will be the shock length. Again strange issue to have if your using a DFV designed for the evo.
how can you wind the spring perch height up without increasing preload? based on what i see, you cannot.
i know i'm not making the spring "harder" by adding preload, but I think there are other negative effects, especially for a corner that lifts off the ground so much. until the height coming back down reaches a level that would already compress the spring enough, i'm not sure what the effects are.
so yes, i could have gone for a longer spring and added the additional length's worth of preload, or I could change the bottom cups for a longer setup. that said, i'm not sure about the rear suspension geometry impact of trying to lengthen the suspension by the cups. I imagine there is some pushing down of the arms. worst case scenario i can just thread it up longer.
they worked when i had the stock rear knuckles. I have the SSB knuckles which are shorter, hence the rear has dropped so much it's basically tucked into the wheel well like one of those hellaflush setups.
