might as well check on the engine mounts, and make sure the LICP can flex with hard shifts/acceleration.

 

Also had issues with silicone coupler on outfeed of turbo especially when i switched to a 90deg one, I guess theres alot of air force being applied to the silicone in a bend rather than it being metal to metal butted up to itself in a straight joiner. Welded an elbow in there instead and never had an issue since.

Also lost many a track time or race due to silicone joiners popping off etc. ditched them for alphaloc brand joiners and not had an issue since. Saw them being used on street outlaws on the big drag cars. Wiggins style couplings are also an option and i use one of those at the throttle body. makes working on that part of the car way easier too because they just slip apart. https://lpsfab.com/collections/alpha...nd-accessories

 

The pressure is the same from turbo to TB. Most of my track time was with the OE LICP hose and it never caused problems. I now have the ETS LICP because of the IE pan. I have had couplers popped off on the dyno/street tho (thanks techs) but never on track. I did add rivets on the TB and intake hose tbolt clamps to give it a bit more bite
The IC couplers. radiator hoses, intake hose is supposed to isolate the engine from the non-moving parts so I'm not sure if hard pipes are going to be good for street cars

 

i've for sure had couplers come off - i've actually been told worm gear clamps are actually better able to secure consistent tightness around the whole circle vs the other style - i switched back to beefier-style worm gear clamps and have never had an issue since. the silicone bursting is new though and it makes sense. again it was right after a shift, so all the boost, nothing, and then all the boost again. don't think it was heat per se - it was the second session, first hot lap that i was starting.

in any case, i don't feel like changing up the LICP so 2 of those bended silicone adapters are coming. i need to get the car up to switch the bottom cups and stuff anyway so we'll see if I can get to it this week. It'll have to wait amonth if not.

 

you mean this is the time the engine will move front to back the most. if not worn/damaged beforehand, its possible its installed in a way that it can get twisted when the engine moves and slowly develop a crack

i dont trust those worm clamps. i need these clamps super tight. worm clamps also has bands that grates the hose so i avoid them. I'm forced to use them on some coolant lines (while my engine build is under 'warranty') but I make sure to put something in between the clamp and the hose

 

yea I don't like the stock ones but the ones I got seem pretty good. T-bolt clamps leave a gap.

And it's possible - it almost looks like it was torn in two places - down the middle and near the clamp. I'll know more when i actually remove it but I was consuming a ton of fuel even in the first run (half a tank in a 20 minute session) so it's possible something was up with it.

 

the metal pipes got those barb/bead/bumps/whatchumacallits so the clamping perfect circle isn't important, the clamp is just there to keep things in place

 

I think you want one of these... This type of worm clamp is the best..

 

What brand is that?

 

Murray...

https://www.murraycorp.com/turbo-sea...tension-clamps

 

thanks but I doubt that has the clamping force I need for the intake hoses. my turbo intake hose can get pulled or wiggled lose (ended a couple of events that way). the turbo intake and in the TB dont have beading(?) to grab onto so I have tbolt clamps torqued down for them. I also use the threads on the tbolt to hang other stuff . One of our local tuner shops also like to replace all the IC clamps with "perfectly sized" tbolt clamps and upcharge you before you get on their dyno.
I only use a worm clamp on my 3d printed MAF adapter/velocity stack and the low pressure side of the BOV

 

Yes the pressure is the same however a curved silicone joiner would be more likely to pop off as they go soft when they get hot. especially a turbo outlet one. and more surface area is exposed to the pressure than in a situation where its a straight joiner and the aluminium is basically butted up to the piece next to it so no surface of the silicone joiner is exposed.

Any sort of constant tension clamp is going to work better than a normal cheap worm clamp.

 

Ive only seen silicon couplers explode on subies. what we use as "pipe butt joiners" is what they (mistakenly) use as tube to inlet/outlet adapters. I think those "pipe butt joiners" is only good when used as such. the adapters tend to be thicker and stronger thats why i think some type of damage existed before kyoo blew his to bits

 

oil in the intake tract can be problematic too



(apparently this is the current state of AI)

 

it is possible - we did run a boost leak test not long ago but during the first 20 minute session I used an entire half a tank of gas - very very strange, my usual consumption per 20min session is closer to 1/4th tank.