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how can you wind the spring perch height up without increasing preload? based on what i see, you cannot.
i know i'm not making the spring "harder" by adding preload, but I think there are other negative effects, especially for a corner that lifts off the ground so much. until the height coming back down reaches a level that would already compress the spring enough, i'm not sure what the effects are.
so yes, i could have gone for a longer spring and added the additional length's worth of preload, or I could change the bottom cups for a longer setup. that said, i'm not sure about the rear suspension geometry impact of trying to lengthen the suspension by the cups. I imagine there is some pushing down of the arms. worst case scenario i can just thread it up longer.
they worked when i had the stock rear knuckles. I have the SSB knuckles which are shorter, hence the rear has dropped so much it's basically tucked into the wheel well like one of those hellaflush setups.
Because a linear rate spring does not change its preload as it compresses only a variable rate spring does this. The only time a linear rate spring becomes an issue is if you do it up so much that the coils bind and then it changes the effective spring rate. however you need to be careful of your droop ratio if your winding it up alot and adjust the shock body to suit.
If you only jack one corner up then you can affect the corner weight. but for what your trying to achieve if you keep the ride height relatively even left to right it shouldnt change much, you can worry about that once your heights back in the window your looking for by adjusting the front to suit.
You could add a keeper spring instead to give you some extra height. You should be able to get in the window with a combination of spring perch and shock body changes surely it cant be that different.
It is 20mm, and it's not about spring rate. In order to retain proper range of compression and droop travel, the body needs to be longer. Ohlins, like most midgrade dampers, use a limited handful of universal damper bodies and just swap lower brackets depending on application. In some applications, such as the rear of our cars, their specific combination of body and lower bracket do not allow for a safe 20mm extension from a structural standpoint, and therefore a taller lower bracket is needed. Using the spring to raise the car will reduce droop travel by 20mm and result in even more tripoding than we already have to fight on this platform. The documented necessary damper adjustment to support the SSB uprights is what it is for a reason.
the new lower mounts are about 40mm longer. Half will go towards re-orienting the arms back to the original setup, 10 to having more threads engaged on the shock body, 10 to raise the rear.
Anyone know if this is the correct orientation for the mounting brackets for the alcon brake kit? I had originally oriented them the same way I did the the AP racing kit but that doesn't seem right. Just want to check before I really crank these down.
retrofitted an engine splash shield from a prius. for extra fuel efficiency and cleanliness of the TC and transmission. has an access panel for the oil pan
i'm still working on the front part
I just started carrying this product and Liqui Moly looks like quality stuff. Reading the bottle it says for 'older engine designs' with or without a turbocharger. I'd assume the 4G fits that description. Not that expensive either.
I just started carrying this product and Liqui Moly looks like quality stuff. Reading the bottle it says for 'older engine designs' with or without a turbocharger. I'd assume the 4G fits that description. Not that expensive either.
TRE uses a ton of moly very similar to the liqumoly gear oil additive, which I added to the t-case and will add to the trans & rear diff.
I haven't tried the additive but I will try adding some to the 4g & the Sequoia V8, haven't decided yet if I'll add it to the veloster N yet...
wrapping this up. I installed the front part of the splash shield from a prius... i went for the cheapest one so it has a 'made in taiwan' embossed and its very flimsy I'll replace that. anyway, it should be good enough for those long 'break-in' drives. dont mind the studs, those are for my experimental splitter
My prototype plywood splitter is ready for testing. I got into this after I learned that Racebred splitters are also plywood. I have wood working tools I havent used in a decade so I thought to give it a go. I used 1/2" BCX plywood for this version 1. I'll use birch next time. it weighed about 13lbs before sealant/wrap/airdam/foam/rods.
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Jul 29, 2025 at 09:16 PM.
hmm in XA i believe its a gray-Yes. I've seen CAMS installed them about 2 years ago. There's wording on the rules that if you can buy aero for a specific car then its legal. The question was also asked in the XA FB group and JG Pasterjak(XA rules guy) said its legal, since even stock cars have front diffuser now. SEB responded to that question and said its covered under "Exterior body panels maybe removed or modified"
This is the splash shield for a Chrysler 300 that I wanted to try to retrofit but the oil cooler said no
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Jul 30, 2025 at 08:19 AM.
I used 1/2" BCX plywood for this version 1. I'll use birch next time.
If you use birch, make sure you call your local lumber yards before going to the big box stores. Also try to get "baltic birch" which has fewer voids and a higher number of thinner plies.
The cheapest baltic birch at my local lumber yard is both nicer and cheaper than anything you'd find at Home Depot.
Next time I talk to my local plastics supplier I'll ask if they have any reasonably priced composite sheets that would work. Seems like in 2025 we should have some options for decently priced composite materials.
If you use birch, make sure you call your local lumber yards before going to the big box stores. Also try to get "baltic birch" which has fewer voids and a higher number of thinner plies.
The cheapest baltic birch at my local lumber yard is both nicer and cheaper than anything you'd find at Home Depot.
Next time I talk to my local plastics supplier I'll ask if they have any reasonably priced composite sheets that would work. Seems like in 2025 we should have some options for decently priced composite materials.
Thanks. I've been thinking about this and I think i need to do a bit more research & weighing pros&cons. regular exterior plywood is stiff enough but you can also add some kind of ribs. birch plywood looks really nice and is a 'harder wood' BUT i wonder if only the veneer is birch, and its still wood looking for a car part. Marine grade plywood is the most recommended because of the waterproof glue used( i dont know where to get it), so I decided to seal, apply waterproof glue & wrap the plywood, I applied glue/sealant on the cuts/holes too, so I think i got the waterproofing covered. I think there is a higher probability that impacts/scrapes would damage the splitter sooner than water/weather. anyway, i dont know, I have to see what it does in autox and see if its worth all the trouble. I drive my car to local events too
I'll replace that. anyway, it should be good enough for those long 'break-in' drives. dont mind the studs, those are for my experimental splitter
