Preload doesn't really do anything about the height, when preloaded with the soft helper springs (50 lb or so). The only raise from those would be their full compressed height that would raise your car that much.

So, having helpers is good if your main spring is on shorter side and at the full extension, gets loose and moves around. Other than that, there is no much help from it!

If you just raise your collar setting that is holding bottom of your spring, you would raise that end by that much, everything else being the same. Of you install longer spring of the same rate, you would raise that end by that extra length more or less.

The only thing when this gets affected is if your main spring is preloaded already at full extension of the shaft and having longer spring instead or raising the adjuster, could get you closer to the binding state and you don't want any of that.

Also, increasing the shaft length would typically not change the height of that corner (assuming no other side effects mentioned above). It is the bottom adjustment that is controlling the height of the car from the shock perspective.

Fedja

 

Coincidentally I installed SSB rear knuckles today and now the rear wheels are so low the tires are tucking into the wheel wells. I adjusted my rear coilovers the exact same way I adjusted my fronts and this is how my car came out:


How the car currently sits


Front wheel


Rear wheel

I took these photos right as I was packing up and leaving so I haven't measured anything yet. I'm worried that preloading the rear spring significantly more than the front and/or adjusting the bump stop in order to increase the rear ride height will make the rear of the car behave funny.

 

ok im glad i'm not the only one who has experienced this - thought I installed something wrong.

I emailed ohlins, hoping they have a longer bottom cup, maybe 30mm. There are aftermarket lowering cups from "Urge" for s2000s using ohlins, but I don't see raising ones.

 

look at coilovers for other cars, then ask/tell them you need a 'replacement part'

 

what are the odds of another coilover body matching the ohlins?

 

I mean ohlins for other cars
but it is possible, since the threaded parts are not the shock itself

 

i'm not worried about the threaded part, worried about the actual bottom mounting - that has got to be custom for every car

 

right, thats also a separate part but it just screws in. if i got a taller cup (FA for another car) then you should too. they could get lazy to search thats why it would help to bring up a sample. thats what I did. I dont know for which car was it tho

 

With ohlins you're having droop travel issues? The uprights will effect the rear travel by the correction amount (1.25") at the wheel and 0.9" at the shock. But flipping the lower control arm gets back 0.75" at the wheel. All the ohlins ive had, older R/T, Older DFV, and Flag, never had a problem with getting needed droop out of the rear. Though I dont know if Ohlins changed something on a newer version.

MCS definitely had issues with droop travel, you couldnt get enough droop on stuck uprights, and absolutely needed custom longer lengths to run the rear kit.

FWIW, I always adjusted the rear by setting spring collar right at "zero" preload. So the spring is captured but not loaded. And adjusted height at the body.

 

how low is your car? I had ohlins DFV with SSB uprights and it was low, but never tucked tire and don’t recall having issues raising it up. They were older DFV’s though

 

yeah, it's not long enough and @rustykan 's looks exactly like mine, though I have flipped the control arms which helped a little, but I'm already at the most I can add height to at the bottom. it's just too tucked in right now. you saw his pics in the above post right?

 

post pics of your rear shock setup. Something doesn't seem right.

 

looks just like this

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...l#post11986046

 

is this yours kyoo?

 

yep