didnt you get a bigger turbo and a new tune?
also the bottom 1/2 of the gauge is way more than the top half if that makes sense

 

i got a 71hta yes but not making much more power than stock. still half a tank in a 20min hpde session? It was always a quarter on the stock turbo, same track.

 

I've only done 1 time attach track day with 93oct (to lower my car classification) and I did hit the 1/4 tank/starvation thing. 1 brought 10gals and still ran out to get fuel. i guess its normal

 

i've ran this track probably a dozen times and consumption had stayed solidly around 3-4gal per 20min session, but I guess stock turbo is more efficient. I'll bring more fuel next time.

 

I may a post about this in Engine/Drivetrain, but since I know a lot of smart individuals are in this thread, I have to post it here as well to have an ounce of hope:



*Full disclosure, the car is currently at a shop looking at it, but I figured I'd post this thread just in case anyone else runs into this issue - I'll update if we find a resolution.

PLEASE read all the way through this. I have bled, adjusted, bled again, adjusted again ( so many positions it's almost comical) etc. The telling thing here is the symptoms are exactly the same with the old clutch as it went out as compared to when we threw a brand new clutch disk, PP, flywheel, TOB in. So to me, that rules out the clutch itself.

Story:
Car has been on a ACT HDSS with OEM flywheel for about 3 years. Only autocrossed and tracked, rarely driven on the street. I've had good success with this in the past 2 other evos I've ran - one of which was at about 500 launches and still kicking. One I had the spring bust out of the clutch disk. This last one seemed fine but was down to the rivets when we pulled it - obviously since the clutch is dragging big time.

April 2025:
I replaced the clutch slave as the boot was rotting to pieces, even though I didn't notice any issues with the clutch at the time. Replaced hardline and bled with my Motive power bleeder. Car felt fine. I did adjust out the clutch pedal and the switch to allow for more travel. Maybe I went too far? Unsure. At launch, the car would slowly creep but it would do that previously from time to time as well. I just assumed it was me having the clutch in a position too close to it engaging (I never launch with it fully on the floor, but maybe I should going forward). No biggie at the time. Can the slave be bad when there isn't an external leak? I don't have the old one to throw back on either.

July 2025:
My buddy went to pull up to the line to start the car for an autox. Said while he revved it up, he thought the car wanted to move forward without him releasing the clutch. Didn't think much of it. Thought it may have been driver error but I was wrong.

Late July 2025: I tried launching at an autox. Car REALLY wanted to move forward before me releasing the clutch. Also went to a pro solo in Lincoln and on test launches, the car would literally pull ahead at about 3000 rpm, clutch to the floor/while revving. The clutch pedal would definitely feel like a vibration was coming through it at rest or if you just BARELY push it in. Otherwise the pedal has felt normal.

I assumed the clutch was bad as it's taken a few years of abuse. I've had ACT clutches pop the springs before so I decide to pull the trans and throw in a new clutch. We proceed to do so.

*Notes of clutch install/removal
We had a HELL of a time trying to release the TOB/monoloc. We actually couldn't release itso we had to remove the trans with the pressure plate. Cut the Monoloc off.
I didn't pay crazy close attention to the input shaft splines or anything on install/removal, but everything went in fine. Went with a single disc Xclutch.
Went to drive it and the SAME exact issues occurred right from the get go. Stationary, push the clutch to the floor, slowly rev and it wants to move forward at about 3,000 rpm. Shifts have resistance due to clutch not wanting to disengage.

I have also replaced the clutch master as well for ****s and giggles - the master and slave never had any external leaks. Bleed countless times, filling the reservoir up to the cap and watching the level. Tried manually bleeding and power bleeding. Seems like the clutch fork/slave is moving enough, but I'm not 100% certain.

I'm at a loss. I have a pro solo finale in a week as well as nationals following right after.

Questions:
Could it be the input shaft?
Could the OEM slave I threw on, be bad even though it's not leaking externally?
I assume the clutch fork isn't going to bend, it would simply snap if it came to it, right? Does anyone or has anyone seen a picture of a bent one?
I know the clutch pedal bracket can crack, but to me again, the clutch fork seems to be moving enough to disengage the clutch. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
Shop has checked for crankwalk - looks to be within spec there. WHEW
Trans to engine bolts were torqued down - never checked to see if there was movement of the trans when pushing the clutch though.


If you or anyone you know has dealt with this issue, please help me out.

 

maybe check for this


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...utch-fork.html

 

do you still have the stock clutch hose? maybe check if its bulging. I cant remember what it looked like so I googled it
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26385233936...zGrij3434BGLcM

 

Everything looked good in regards to the clutch fork when we pulled it a couple weeks ago.

The clutch hard line was replaced prior to all of this too.

 

@LV///R could be one of those series of unfortunate events.this one got sorted
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...sengage-2.html

crap my backup is Exedy brand.
I scanned the search results earlier and what i got was our slave cylinder is common but the pushrod length is different between cars. sellers and suppliers are probably oblivious to this when they label it "equivalent"

 

I could never bleed this clutch manually without making it worse - I could only do it by using the pressure bleeder.

 

i dont like pressure bleeders. been lucky enough not to need them.

 

I just started using the bleeder with the one-way check valve that prevents fluid/air from going back in - holy ****, what a life changer. Can pedal bleed with no more 2 man process.


If only I knew about this when I was torturing my girlfriend with "up...down...up...down..."

I just connect it, open the bleeder valve, and pump pump pump the brake pedal and top off the reservoir - it goes extremely quickly.

 

I've been alone since I moved to the US so i have been doing this for almost 30years. to change the fluid first I just use a fluid transfer pump

 

Do you not have any problems with air coming in around the bleed screw threads?

 

wouldn't that be true regardless of what method you used to bleed? Anyway no, or not that I'm aware of - pedal is not the firmest ever, but still pretty firm - but still planning to do some "top off" bleeds.

I don't fully OPEN the bleeder screw, just same open as when you do a two man. no air is drawn in. if it was loose enough for air, some brake fluid would also seep through the screws.