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I designed a printed manifold for my car as well and it fell into that same price range printed out of stainless using an overseas broker.
I got some prototypes of another part printed in aluminum last year. They required all of the flanges to be ground flat (high distortion) and tapping threads felt like running a tap through sand. It left me feeling very meh, but they did work just fine. It's not something I would feel comfortable selling to someone but it's a great option for hobbyists that want to do something for themselves or demoing an idea.
I am counting on the flanges being machined flat.. Otherwise I do agree with you... If I was thinking of selling these I would have them cast.
I am counting on the flanges being machined flat.. Otherwise I do agree with you... If I was thinking of selling these I would have them cast.
Looking forward to seeing that manifold in metal when you get it! Definitely a clean solution for getting an EFR on these cars. I've been pestering the guys at Borg Warner for years to do reverse rotation EFRs but at this point it'll probably never happen
which bushing? cant take the control arm out then press the bolt out?
Nope! There are two slots there with holes for the bolt. Rear side has a slot for the arm, while front one is for the shock. I could cut the bolt on the shock side, but it is still between the two metal slots that bolt goes through and you can't get in there to cut anything.
Decided to leave the shock body in there. Guys from the shop already removed the oil line from the shock before I got there (even though I showed them and disconnected it from the canister), so shocks has to be rebuilt at this point. Saved one shock and one remote!
Nope! There are two slots there with holes for the bolt. Rear side has a slot for the arm, while front one is for the shock. I could cut the bolt on the shock side, but it is still between the two metal slots that bolt goes through and you can't get in there to cut anything.
Decided to leave the shock body in there. Guys from the shop already removed the oil line from the shock before I got there (even though I showed them and disconnected it from the canister), so shocks has to be rebuilt at this point. Saved one shock and one remote!
OK but i'm pretty sure I can remove my coilover with the control arm. that thing just falls straight down
OK but i'm pretty sure I can remove my coilover with the control arm. that thing just falls straight down
Here is a better view of the section:
There are 3 holes that bolt is going through. Red one is on the side of the shock where nut is and that can be cut on both sides. Problem is between the holes 2 and 3 where the arm bushing is. You could probably cut the bolt close to the hole on nut side and remove the top of the bolt on the right side. It would still not fall down since bolt will be in both holes. Some hydraulic press would perhaps be able to push it out, but once you cut the head of the bolt, there is nothing much to press it on that side. Pressing on the shock side would be even harder, since there is more material where the hole 1 is that is in the way. In other word, it sucks!
@MrAWD have you tried using a ball joint separator on that threaded side of the bolt? I just cut my HF ball joint separator to widen the "fork" when I was helping a neighbor. they were 3 generations of guys hammering out a ball joint thats never been serviced since 2012. it was no match for the HF tool
@MrAWD have you tried using a ball joint separator on that threaded side of the bolt? I just cut my HF ball joint separator to widen the "fork" when I was helping a neighbor. they were 3 generations of guys hammering out a ball joint thats never been serviced since 2012. it was no match for the HF tool
Looks cool, but I think I would need something that goes in the opposite direction. Either way, I am just done with it at this point! Thanks for help!
The bj separator wouldn't be wide enough i don't think to work. The trailing arm mount is in the way I think too, couldn't even hit it with a hammer, unless you cut the head off the bolt and press it out from that side. But sounds like a lot of work... That sucks.. Then risk damaging the knuckle.
The bj separator wouldn't be wide enough i don't think to work. The trailing arm mount is in the way I think too, couldn't even hit it with a hammer, unless you cut the head off the bolt and press it out from that side. But sounds like a lot of work... That sucks.. Then risk damaging the knuckle.
Well, I heard there are some aluminum knuckles out there that even improve suspension geometry along the way...
is this the way you guys were imagining it and that it wont fit? normally you'd leave the nut loosened to the max so the tool doesnt damage the threads. you only need to move that bolt a few mm to break the rust between the bolt and the bushing(might give you an opening to spray wd40 under the bolt head). the "fork" opening need to be wide enough to get passed the bushing so the tool is straight and do its job properly. the tool might be too big so a taller nut side might help (blue is where its normally used)
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Oct 16, 2025 at 10:27 AM.
is this the way you guys were imagining it and that it wont fit? normally you'd leave the nut loosened to the max so the tool doesnt damage the threads. you only need to move that bolt a few mm to break the rust between the bolt and the bushing(might give you an opening to spray wd40 under the bolt head). the "fork" opening need to be wide enough to get passed the bushing so the tool is straight and do its job properly. the tool might be too big so a taller nut side might help (blue is where its normally used)
Looking at the picture, that could have worked...I am passed that point right now...just want to be done with everything
