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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 01:49 PM
  #6136  
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Killing two sensors in a row would make me suspect the controller.

Are you using genuine Bosch 4.9 sensors or one of the generic equivalents?
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 04:45 AM
  #6137  
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genuines. it's the 4.9, it just sucks
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 09:07 AM
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Is yours in the o2 housing or downstream?
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 10:01 AM
  #6139  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Is yours in the o2 housing or downstream?
o2 housing, so yea the wire goes by the exhaust manifold and everything
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 10:21 AM
  #6140  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
o2 housing, so yea the wire goes by the exhaust manifold and everything
That's what I was wondering. If the 4.9 is more temperature sensitive I'm guessing the control is working to get it to temperature but not able to keep it from going over temp and killing it. Which would make sense that its dying at an AX with sustained heat vs street driving.

At least from all of this, I'm happy I've stuck with the 4.2 since mine is in the o2 housing too.
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 10:27 AM
  #6141  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
That's what I was wondering. If the 4.9 is more temperature sensitive I'm guessing the control is working to get it to temperature but not able to keep it from going over temp and killing it. Which would make sense that its dying at an AX with sustained heat vs street driving.

At least from all of this, I'm happy I've stuck with the 4.2 since mine is in the o2 housing too.
yea i mean it's sitting right by all the hottest bits of the car. i'll be happy to go back to my slow autometer. slow is better than none
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 10:29 AM
  #6142  
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FWIW I had 2 genuine Bosch 4.9 sensors not working straight out of the box. Just pegged max lean at all times with the dashes on the gauge. 3rd sensor finally worked and has been perfect for a couple years now.
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Evo9isLife
FWIW I had 2 genuine Bosch 4.9 sensors not working straight out of the box. Just pegged max lean at all times with the dashes on the gauge. 3rd sensor finally worked and has been perfect for a couple years now.
Mine work for normal driving, and then fail after an event. Once failed, they do not work again, I just get an E8 error on the reading on the gauge.
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 02:40 PM
  #6144  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
How you get corner exit rotation is by applying force to the outside rear tire. When the inside rear tire is in the air the only amount of torque the outside wheel can put down is equal to the preload of the diff. This is why we use the gymkhana diff.
That amount of preload does require you to lift the inside tire on tight turns but if you aren't doing that you have other issues (The pejorative "you").
Understeer seems to be cause by the center diff locking up due to inside rear or front wheel spin binding the front/rear together. And like turning a 4x4 truck locked on pavement doesnt work, its fighting high grip AWD rally cars as well.
Dallas - have you ever tried your ACD with it set to open?
Non ACD cars have the viscous coupling, which will heat up and lock once there is too much wheelspin.
I'm wondering if drilling the VCU case to release the fluid work work... Make it an open centre diff
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 03:24 PM
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i've seen a motec test on an evo x with the acd fully open - it's fast, faster than stock. but not as fast as tuned.
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 03:26 PM
  #6146  
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Originally Posted by RSMike
Dallas - have you ever tried your ACD with it set to open?
Non ACD cars have the viscous coupling, which will heat up and lock once there is too much wheelspin.
I'm wondering if drilling the VCU case to release the fluid work work... Make it an open centre diff
Yes, on 2 cars. The very very early English Racing proto tunes didnt work and made the ECU error and go full open. It was absolutely atrocious. Like it would snap over and snap under steer all in the same corner. Was basically impossible to drive.
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 07:54 PM
  #6147  
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Originally Posted by Evo9isLife
FWIW I had 2 genuine Bosch 4.9 sensors not working straight out of the box. Just pegged max lean at all times with the dashes on the gauge. 3rd sensor finally worked and has been perfect for a couple years now.
Were they genuine? Or were they the silver, untested, China ones that AEM includes with their gauges?
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Old Jun 7, 2024 | 02:50 AM
  #6148  
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Originally Posted by RSMike
Dallas - have you ever tried your ACD with it set to open?
Non ACD cars have the viscous coupling, which will heat up and lock once there is too much wheelspin.
I'm wondering if drilling the VCU case to release the fluid work work... Make it an open centre diff
ACD goes open when the pump breaks down and it is no fun... drives like **** and understeers all over the place
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Old Jun 7, 2024 | 11:20 AM
  #6149  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
genuines. it's the 4.9, it just sucks
The 4.9 is used in high volumes in OEM applications all over the place. It's definitely not failing at that rate with OEM controllers.

Bosch provides a proprietary integrated circuit for operating the sensor, but I don't know which, if any, of the aftermarket gauge companies actually get access to it. If they roll their own control loops and algorithms then the sensor could easily be operating out of the safe area.

If you had a working setup then I don't blame you for returning to it, but personally I'd be switching to a different 4.9 based system if I was going to spend money on something new.
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Old Jun 7, 2024 | 11:46 AM
  #6150  
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OEM applications have it dialed, totally reliable in normal applications. Im guessing they have a lot of control and testing in each specific application. Then we throw them in random places with huge variance in heat, carbon, and fuel loads. Just really seems to be the wrong sensor for aftermarket where robustness is more important.
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