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pretty sure they drilled a hole in my center cap as they struggled to remove it when i brought wheels/tires there for mounting
so,
i removed some front preload from the springs, haven't driven the car yet to see if that gets rid of the steering creaking, but i think it may. it did do it sitting still but not when it was in the air. spacing, everything else seemed ok.
i found the likely source of the rattle that has been driving me insane - the route the shop took for the acd relocation puts a stainless steel line above/on top of the center heat shield, right in the tunnel where i felt like the noise was coming from. sure enough, wiggling the line makes quite a clanging on top of the heat shield, so I covered the looser portion of that line in duct tape. have not yet tested this on the road but i'm maybe 60% confident that's what that was lol. it also started after the relocation work.
tuner requested i test the ethanol content in the gas, which is fine. either the fuel is good (what I think), and the UICP leaned out the mix at WOT, or the fuel is bad, the UICP did nothing and I'm supposed to dump 14 gallons of e85 cuz there's not enough ethanol in it. At least I've got the Sequoia taking flex fuel if that is the case, but the ethanol I get is the ethanol I get and while I'm sure it varies I can't imagine people are constantly checking their ethanol content every time they fill up.
Lower ethanol content would richen the AFR, not make it leaner.
If you were tuned on E70, and got a tank of E85 and the car isn't flex fuel, it could lean out .5-1 point.
You should be testing your ethanol content before it goes in the car. Especially since you're (for some reason) not running flex fuel.
if i drain about half of it, add 1 gallon of pump (93 E10 here), that should get me to E70 (80 * 7 + 10 * 1)/8 = 71.25
weird that it runs leaner with more ethanol, thought it would be the reverse. essentially i could add pump gas to make my car run richer if i were on the e85 map, and that would be safer for the motor from a knock perspective?
nice. I love food around Jersey City. I lived for 6 months at that "motel" right outside the holland(?) tunnel into Manhattan Not sure if its a good place to be a DIY car guy. My friends from JC to Hoboken took their cars to my garage in North Newark to get some mods done
just got back from a ~400 mile road trip. finally went WOT since the changes, and it looks like the tune is about 0.5-1 afr leaner with the new, straighter piping. the car also sounds quite different, there's more vibrato in the overall sound, if that makes sense. only changes power-wise were the UICP (and fluidampr). Hopefully tuner can juts richen up the tune 1.0afr all around without me actually going to him, not sure how dual map tunes work.
The upper IC pipe shouldn't change the AFR. However, if you unknowingly fixed a big boost leak, that would do it. And also the E content, of course.
How do you make sure it's squared up to the two wheels?
I recently invested in a string alignment kit. I've used it two times already and so far it's been so much easier to do your own alignment than I had thought. I honestly wish I would have bought something like this years ago.
Ive been using jack stands and fishing line squared up to the car for alignments for 18 years now. Its really way easier to do than people think but does take attention to detail.
Also its good to at least level the floor left/right. And not by measuring the car angle but the actual floor points.
How do you make sure it's squared up to the two wheels?
I recently invested in a string alignment kit. I've used it two times already and so far it's been so much easier to do your own alignment than I had thought. I honestly wish I would have bought something like this years ago.
I have to perfect the 2 rear wheels first, using 2 6' rulers and square both wheels to (or thru)the doors and rearwards. i leave tape on the floor also to measure the squareness. after that I just have a clothes line hooked onto the rear swaybar, the line goes to rear of rear tire all the way to the front bumper area using jackstands i can move when needed to open doors etc.
i dont want to be too dependent on SST
it was the e content, yea. no boost leaks, usually I see the car running lean at idle when I do. thought I included this pic. FWIW, i tried it with distilled water the first time and it didn't look right, tried a second time with just tap water and it seemed to make a little more sense:
I think I'm tuned around E70, and I have about E82 in there or so. I can add about a gallon of 93/E10 to it and it should get me down closer to E70. It is odd to me that higher ethanol content leads to leaner conditions, thought it would be the reverse? any insight on what exactly is going on there?
Not sure if its a good place to be a DIY car guy. My friends from JC to Hoboken took their cars to my garage in North Newark to get some mods done
