Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?
How old are the hoses you're using? What kind of clamps do you have on them? I would skip T-bolts if you're using them for a constant tension clamp. Also, some casting roughness has issues with some cars sealing with silicone hoses. RX7s are particularly sensitive to it though I haven't had issues with my mishimoto hoses leaking.
You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?
You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?
Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster
did you try putting paper towels on the suspect areas? sometimes rust pitting can cause leaks, so might as well check those surfaces
How old are the hoses you're using? What kind of clamps do you have on them? I would skip T-bolts if you're using them for a constant tension clamp. Also, some casting roughness has issues with some cars sealing with silicone hoses. RX7s are particularly sensitive to it though I haven't had issues with my mishimoto hoses leaking.
You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?
You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?
i could, but as mentioned i'm moving in about 10 days. car is staying here but we've got a lot of packing and other stuff going on..
so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.
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i haven't, maybe i should zip some on here and there. they won't catch fire right? lmao. so annoying. i may go this route vs powder since it's a little cleaner and nothing the intake will suck in.
so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.
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so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.
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The whiteline lower bushing? That would have pushed the wheel forward but you still had to hammer the rear wheel well seam? Usually the perrin/wl bushing pairs well with 10-15mm offset top hats.
Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster
Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster

Feed me casterrrrrr.
My car handles night and day better with the SSB uprights, offset camber tops and a LSD rear end.
i haven't, maybe i should zip some on here and there. they won't catch fire right? lmao. so annoying. i may go this route vs powder since it's a little cleaner and nothing the intake will suck in.
so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.
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so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.
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yeah. i have fixed a rattle from the big heatshield. the small heatshield for the driveshaft bushings can touch the exhaust too so I bent that a bit further. the subframe touches also, so i hammered it a bit. it depend how things got put back together after working on the car. I also put steel wires on the muffler area so left-right movement is reduced. One rattle I just recently sorted that seemed like its coming from the frame was actually the bov t-clamp touching the engine which transfers vibrations to the frame
Cassster works. Although I did have to shave a good 2-3 inches off of the bumper and splitter to get the meats to fit then lol. Pondering dialing the caster back to the nut seating (SSB) and seeing where it ends up at before I hack up the new body parts again.












