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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:34 AM
  #4606  
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Needs more caster...
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:48 AM
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looks like i am still losing a small amount of coolant. should I just outright replace some of the rubber hoses in case it's just internal cracks or whatever?


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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:49 AM
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I dont think I can add caster more than what whiteline provides. I already hammered the sideskirt area a bit :\
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:52 AM
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How old are the hoses you're using? What kind of clamps do you have on them? I would skip T-bolts if you're using them for a constant tension clamp. Also, some casting roughness has issues with some cars sealing with silicone hoses. RX7s are particularly sensitive to it though I haven't had issues with my mishimoto hoses leaking.

You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?

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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
I dont think I can add caster more than what whiteline provides. I already hammered the sideskirt area a bit :\
The whiteline lower bushing? That would have pushed the wheel forward but you still had to hammer the rear wheel well seam? Usually the perrin/wl bushing pairs well with 10-15mm offset top hats.

Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
looks like i am still losing a small amount of coolant. should I just outright replace some of the rubber hoses in case it's just internal cracks or whatever?
did you try putting paper towels on the suspect areas? sometimes rust pitting can cause leaks, so might as well check those surfaces
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
How old are the hoses you're using? What kind of clamps do you have on them? I would skip T-bolts if you're using them for a constant tension clamp. Also, some casting roughness has issues with some cars sealing with silicone hoses. RX7s are particularly sensitive to it though I haven't had issues with my mishimoto hoses leaking.

You said your mechanic pressure test the system, can you go rent one and do the same thing but leave it on for a while and see if it loses pressure over time?
as far as the upper radiator hose, it's a year and half old. it is a silicone hose, a samco sport. worm gears are used on that one, could try tightening more.

i could, but as mentioned i'm moving in about 10 days. car is staying here but we've got a lot of packing and other stuff going on..
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:04 AM
  #4613  
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Also spray foot powder works too. Spray it on, go drive it, track where the powder is washed away.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:07 AM
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Dallas J
The whiteline lower bushing? That would have pushed the wheel forward but you still had to hammer the rear wheel well seam?
Yes

Originally Posted by Dallas J
Usually the perrin/wl bushing pairs well with 10-15mm offset top hats.

Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster
Will look into that, thanks. Maybe I need to give up camber from the bolts and get more from the top also
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:10 AM
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this is a pic of mine. about 5.6 degrees of caster with this one & the superpro caster bushings on stock control arms:


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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:14 AM
  #4616  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
did you try putting paper towels on the suspect areas? sometimes rust pitting can cause leaks, so might as well check those surfaces
i haven't, maybe i should zip some on here and there. they won't catch fire right? lmao. so annoying. i may go this route vs powder since it's a little cleaner and nothing the intake will suck in.

so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.

****
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:39 AM
  #4617  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
i haven't, maybe i should zip some on here and there. they won't catch fire right? lmao. so annoying. i may go this route vs powder since it's a little cleaner and nothing the intake will suck in.

so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.

****
You should just write a list of everything youve noticed thats wrong and drop the car to somebody who knows evos well(mechanic) and let them sort it all out for you
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:40 AM
  #4618  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
The whiteline lower bushing? That would have pushed the wheel forward but you still had to hammer the rear wheel well seam? Usually the perrin/wl bushing pairs well with 10-15mm offset top hats.

Or you can go ham with 30mm fixed offset uppers and billet control arms for 9+ deg of caster
Oooo thats what ive got hahahah.

Feed me casterrrrrr.

My car handles night and day better with the SSB uprights, offset camber tops and a LSD rear end.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:44 AM
  #4619  
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Originally Posted by kyoo
i haven't, maybe i should zip some on here and there. they won't catch fire right? lmao. so annoying. i may go this route vs powder since it's a little cleaner and nothing the intake will suck in.

so many issues. there's a rattle at 2800rpms and higher speeds too coming from what seems like the trans tunnel, hoping that's just a heat shield or something, gotta be frequency related since it disappears almost entirely at other speeds/rpms.

****
No, its safe.
yeah. i have fixed a rattle from the big heatshield. the small heatshield for the driveshaft bushings can touch the exhaust too so I bent that a bit further. the subframe touches also, so i hammered it a bit. it depend how things got put back together after working on the car. I also put steel wires on the muffler area so left-right movement is reduced. One rattle I just recently sorted that seemed like its coming from the frame was actually the bov t-clamp touching the engine which transfers vibrations to the frame
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:48 AM
  #4620  
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Cassster works. Although I did have to shave a good 2-3 inches off of the bumper and splitter to get the meats to fit then lol. Pondering dialing the caster back to the nut seating (SSB) and seeing where it ends up at before I hack up the new body parts again.
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