Got a good test of the new tune this weekend. Its amazing how good the Motec targets boost and gets there. It hits so much harder when you need it to. 21-22psi feels way stronger than 25-26psi use to feel because it actually hits boost rather than maybe creeping up there.

Major issue to solve now though, fuel slosh or starvation. I use to be limited to 1/4 tank minimum but this weekend we had it cutting hard at 3/8 tank. Added a bunch of fuel and it was perfect and today ran it down to 1/2 tank still acting well. But need to be able to get down to the 1/4 range without starvation. Would really like to do it without an added surge tank, wondering if a Radium drop-in hanger and their return venturi would solve that well enough.

 

Dallas,

Kikiturbo built a setup picking up from both sides of the fuel tank, i.e. right side having a pump feeding back the left side, than left side has a main pump as usual, no syphone.

You remember that, am sure, now that I remind you. Pump on right uses switch - when no fuel- no pumping.

 

talking about this...







I always thought that we should get rid of that venturi... would make life easier when running big pumps.. also, secondary pump is a small low amp one as not to tax the electrical system. The tank connectors I found are some OE GM ones, and support high amps..

 

try my experimental solution. IMO you only need to slow down the exiting of the fuel from that bowl in order to make it function like a swirl pot.
still in my to-do list is to measure the fuel level using the sender

 

Not sure what your solution was. Got a link to the post?

I dont see why a higher flowing venturi generator wouldnt work. Maybe need to change the fuel return line to the OEM fuel feed line for flow sake once I install the -6 feed line. But should be enough residual flow to constantly keep the left topped off as intended. The OEM venturi is super dinky but a larger one should flow more and pump more.

Also a silly thought was a flapper on the crossover tube with a flow limiter in the Left -> Right flow but open on the Right -> Left flow. Not sure if its even possible to get in there to install something.

 

i made this from non-magnetic materials + neodymium magnets. its a flap that acts like a check valve. It's not a perfect seal but it does slow down the draining ... i filled this bowl and it took over 1.5min to level out with the rest of the tank. The plan is if the fuel return cant keep this bowl filled, I will have to pump fuel into the return line from the drain plug...increasing the flow and volume




I have only tested my materials with e85. I have the same parts bottled in e85 for several months and nothing is degrading

 

Ok, so yeah that is pretty similar to what I was thinking would work. Sloshing fuel would make its way left and held there but filling would let stuff average out. And also still maintaining the venturi flow movement. Magnets could work fine to hold it in place, but I would make a boss to register the flap to the hole.

 

one small issue is the last half gallon takes longer to put into the tank

can we measure fuel sender resistance on the DR side?

 

Interesting wonder how you were so light!

Without me in it its 3000lb.

I do have a steel roof as my shell is E7. There is places to get weight down. Tubular subframes, carbon prop shaft, carbon doors, carbon roof etc. But i think i could probably only knock like 100kg out of it.

 

You're not really trying all that hard if you're still 3000lbs. My car is 3000lbs as a full interior car and I know of 200lbs I can remove still as an SM Legal full interior car. I know you have a cage, but there are a ton of areas I have to remove weight if I was making it a full race car.

 

I heard that on the UK groups that Evo 7s are a lighter chassis compared to Evo 8/9.

 

A low amp, low pressure 150 lph pump on the pass side will keep the fuel bowl full at all times, even at 1+g turns.. and the wiring is not that difficult.. plus you get more constant fuel pressure because of not having to have a venturi in line
Another option is to keep the venturi for normal driving and put the aux pump in the co driver side of the tank, but activate it from the motec.. trigger it at +.5 G left hand turn only..

 

Cup noodles would help lose some weight. and more budget for mods

 

Ive chopped most of the boot structure away. everything is stripped n gutted. doors are gutted. wiring loom gone etc. carbon bootlid, carbon hood, fibreglass guards(genuine voltex) i think its pretty crap to say not trying hard there isnt much low hanging fruit left lol.

I have put a bit of weight back into it with the paddle shift compressor and tank, drysump system, fuel system. and i do have a pretty comprehensive cage with more than the minimum bars.

I have started a spreadsheet and i can get some decent weight out of it with tubular subframes and carbon doors/roof but thats an easy $10k to purchase also

 

Then I dont know what you're doing wrong cause 3000lbs is waaay heavy.