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plus amps aren't free. That's more load on the alternator, which means heat and wear . Worst of all it takes power from the engine, and if you don't actually need the fuel at that moment, the engine probably isn't making all that much power to begin with. Also takes fuel to make power so worse fuel economy.
Having the pump running constantly full blast is a lot of power and heat you're putting into the fuel system. And its just not necessary. My goal was only to maintain the high/low voltage but it just ended up with the Tri-voltage in my car due to the way the relays are wired. OEM you ground to disengage but since Im pulling power directly from the battery I needed that one to ground to engage.
Eventually I'll swap things out to the brushless because I think that's the right direction. Fuel on demand and its a simple thing to control now.
This was a short fix for an issue that is specific to older evos (like e6 and earlier).... torsen diffs were held together with countersunk bolts instead of cap bolts.. due to forces in the diff cap they could break and damage the diff housing/TC
It is a bit of a hard steel, but a special endmill (with custom extension haha) made easy work of it.. and now it accepts normal 8mm alen cap bolts
my car has gained quite a bit of weight with the half cage and full size battery back in the trunk - coming in at 3,233lbs without driver & half a tank of gas Finally got under 60% weight up front though, and I think I'm happy with the weight given how heavy the half cage and all the hardware was.
2250 thats as far as im aware lighter than even the tilton evo!
The white evo 4/5 in the photos is only like 1150kg(2500lb) my car currently sits at about 3000lb dry. I need to be around that 2500 - 2600lb mark i reckon
we were 2600lbs with a proper cage and aero. Only areas I could think to lose more weight would be removing some of the cage bars and aluminum block.