I believe water plus poor heater circuit control is likely the reason they fail. see here:
https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide...-applications/

 

Definitely genuine. It had Bosch and part number laser etched on the sensor and was colored like it had already been heated up. The reason why I bought the additional sensors in he first place is because the AEM supplied sensor didn't work right either lol.

 

@kyoo 2 things sir-

Wideband- I would move the sensor from the o2 housing to the downpipe. My sensor is right under the oil pan. havent ever had a sensor die in the evo. I think the o2 housing will get too hot. might just try to relocate it.

The noise in your video above, not sure if you rectified it, but it might be a heat shield or something rattling. do you have any heat shields on your exhaust or anywhere else? (not an expert on diff or TC noises, but have had some really odd heat shield rattles at random speed/rpm in the past. might be something to look into!) i would also double check all of your mounts. i had a bolt back out of the rear mount, causing the motor to move and rock. it made some odd noises at times.

 

unforch it's def the t-case and/or front diff. 57k miles of beating on a stock tcase - i'm pretty happy with that. i did used to have a rattle related to the heatshield, but it was the lines that we ran to the trunk for the acd relocation

wideband - nah it's annoying, 4.2 worked bulletproof, not sure why the shop made me switch but i don't want to deal with it again.

 

If the 4.2 was working, then no reason not to continue using it.

The O2 housing is a tough spot for the wideband sensor. They do better when they're closer to vertical. The article Grice posted above has more details, but they're sensitive to condensation which can collect on the sensor element if it's in an unfavorable orientation.

 

Gents, I'm doing an unscheduled t-belt job since it looks like my intake cam gear skipped 3 teeth while trying to start the car which I later learned had a broken 12v wire to coil#4 (broke during autox run). my ATI damper came off with the crank gear, no idea why its stuck together. qq on this label. is the impact on the timing handled thru the tune, and I still use the timing marks when putting all this together? TIA

 

71hta or mhi18k for an autox car? bummer about no ball bearing for either option. 51lbs for the 71hta, 54 for the mhi18k. i assume it's slightly less power & quicker spool vs more power slower spool? leaning toward the 71hta, seems like an easy way to upgrade. My turbo feels tired.

 

You have to compensate for this in the cams. I'm trying to re-rationalize this in my head so hopefully I don't get it wrong... The bigger size really is advancing the gear but its by enough that you would retard a full tooth and have a remainder of 2deg retarded. It kind of makes sense to state it this way because you will typically line up the cam gears as close to the timing marks as possible.

With mivec, you will lose 2deg at the top end of the range, so -3.5 to 26.5 and this will need to be changed in the tune or its possible to have a CEL when it tries and target higher than 26.5 and cant reach it. I only saw this when cruising on freeway in 5th and you roll into throttle going up a hill. Its an easy change to the min/max range.

 

Nothing to add other than to say that's really unfortunate all around.

 

I havent been impressed with the 18k spool thought its somewhat similar to some greens Ive seen which people have had success with. But peak power is waaaaaaayyyyyy less important than response. Ive been super happy with my Blouch 1.0xtr that Ive had since 2015.

 

18k all the way. Better match between turbine and compressor sizing. Won't notice spool difference.

 

Can you remind us about the rest of the engine? Is this a stock displacement 2.0L with the factory redline and pump gas?

I would lean toward the smaller 71HTA. In my admittedly very limited experience in other people's Evos, 2.0L builds with more than ~50lb/min turbos started to feel more laggy than I would want for AutoX.

I agree that it's too bad both are journal bearing. Having proper twin scroll housings is a huge advantage, though.

The more modern, albeit more expensive, option in this range is GCG's G25-550 stock frame turbo: https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-g25...390-evo9a.html Note price is in AUD, so it's more like $3400 USD. Still a lot more than an MHI 18K and substantially more than a 71HTA supercore, but it would be at the top of my list for stock frame ~50lb/min turbos for AutoX use.

 

I was trying to remember which turbo you had, because your experience is most relevant for AutoX.

The 1.0XTR is a ~48lb/min turbo and you have a 2.3L, right? Given that you find that combo to spool just right for AutoX, I'd be really hesitant to go with a 54 lb/min turbo (18K) on a stock displacement engine.

OTOH, if the car is being built for dual-purpose track duty, the bigger turbo could make more sense.

 

I think the 1.0 xtr is 51lb/min. I havent really looked into the 71hta, so not sure how the turbine and compressor compare to the BBK Full/Blouch1.0.

On a 2.2l and I did 420hp on 92oct and 520hp on E85. And that 520 was pretty maxed out up top. Adding timing dropped boost, Pulling timing added boost, but power stayed constant. We're pretty much choked on backpressure at this point Im guessing. Only thing I could consider changing for would be same power, same spool, but less EMAP.

 

My car skipped some teeth at one point due to the timing cover ingesting a grommet from a clear cam cover. But leak down and compression test, borescope, and dyno run confirmed all was well. We do get lucky sometimes lol